when you think of it

China Earthquake

2008-05-25T19:42:00.000-07:00

Hi all, I am fine. Thank you to those of you who emailed, called or thought about me. NPR has done a wonderful job capturing the spirit of this disaster. These are some sound bytes that probably many of you have already heard, but some may not have. I don't have words for my feelings.

The quake hits as Melissa records a pastor's story. The quake was felt in Hangzhou, but on the 15th floor of an office building I was unaware as those around me evacuated:
http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=90396578

Melissa visits scene of a collapsed middle school
http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=90395454

A week later (yesterday) a three-day mourning period started. I was told about the mourning period but I was shocked to my core to experience the three minutes of silence (marked by air-raid sirens) while I was checking out at the supermarket. For three minutes the impossible happened, the whole nation of 1.6 billion stood stalk still. The hair on my arm still prickles when i think about those three minutes. Nearby the checkout a t.v. continued to play dreadful footage of children being pulled from wreckage. This is a taste of it:
http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=90603015

And finally, fear still abounds as everyone waits, here to hear about loved ones and there to see what the next aftershock will do.
http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=90603021

No word from Stone Gate Village yet, an update to hopefully come soon.

Ma Zhi Nan

2008-04-04T22:27:00.000-07:00

In the Miao village called Ajigen, outside of Stone Gate, lives an 11-year-old girl named Ma Zhi Nan who has a benign tumor in her salivary gland. This picture was taken in August of 2007.

Ma Zhi Nan ‘s family and family home.

This picture was taken in December of 2007; the tumor has rapidly grown and continues to cause her significant pain and suffering. CNCP is currently looking for a sponsor who is willing to donate 140 USD per year for her schooling and family/life support and 550 USD for her hospital exams and transport to and from the hospital. In addition, CNCP, along with Shimenkan Connection, is currently searching for a hospital or doctor who is willing to do the surgery for free, as her family cannot afford such an expense.

Current needs

2007-07-22T08:14:00.000-07:00

Being on holiday from work and school, I find most days working on projects started in China by SJA that could use a lot of support and prayer from the US. Right now, I desperately need old Christmas cards (both sides attached. When Christmastime comes, each student needs two cards to fashion a "Christmas box" which I use as a teaching tool about giving during the holiday season. (Other cards or holiday paraphernalia (pictures, window clings, storybooks, activities etc) about special occasions like Easter, Valentine's Day, birthdays and Thanksgiving are also welcome as teaching tools.

I am also seeking new and gently used children's books (age 0-12) for the opening of a free English reading corner in the Hangzhou Public Library. Groups, establishments and individuals will be listed on a plaque in both Chinese and English at the opening of the reading corner.

To complete these tasks, I also am asking for donations toward postal fees (as we all know, postage has gone up quite steeply lately)to ship both the cards and the books to Hangzhou, donars will also be recognized for their contribution.

Thank you very much for your continued support and prayers. If you are interested in participating in any of these drives, please call, email, drop by or leave me a comment on my page. Thanks again!!

Shimenkan

2007-06-25T06:50:00.000-07:00

Late this August, I will be travelling to Shimenkan with Cici. This is our general idea about our upcoming research trip to Stone Gateway (Shimenkan). Shimenkan is the home of the Miao minority people, which have held a very low status for generations, even amidst other local minorities. We have two main goals, local education and historical Christianity cultivation.

1. Local education.
- We will investigate the issues of poverty-stricken families needing their children at home to work rather than at school, endangered schools, and the quality of rural teachers. We have friend there who is a local teacher and devotes a lot of time and money to local charity work, she is already identifying families in particular desperation and making a list for our investigation. We will organize financial support in this field, using the resources of both OCEF (Overseas Chinese Education Foundation) and SJA, depending on potential funding.

2. Church Growth
-Furthermore, we plan to record local Christian history by contacting local church people (Miao Christians) particularly those persons belonging to the older generations. We will bring Stone Gateway stories and history to life to showcase Christianity in this area.

- We will investigate what is left of the church now, what sort of influence Christianity has on the community, and the possibility of creating a budget in order to build a new church.

- In order to raise money to support both the growth of the church and educational system, we will examine Miao handicrafts, such as Miao embroidery, in hopes that by selling local goods here and abroad, the community can rely on itself to create a better life for it's youth.

- We particularly plan to begin a women's class to learn the characters of the Miao written language, along with Christian vocabulary from the Bible or hymns. It is important to emphasize that classes will also be aimed at sanitation, childcare, family, health and agricultural practices.

We will investigate and survey the possibility, cost and requirements of the abovementioned projects. Many donations and volunteers are needed. This program should exist mainly on donations from abroad and the kindness of foreigners, as the program should be done in a covert manner in order to stray from political and social problems amass in China (beginning that it is such a sensitive subject).

Soon, we will open a webpage in both Chinese and English introducing Stone Gateway to the general public with general facts and information—not only concerning the village, but also the projects aiming at raising the living standard. Through the website, one will also be able to donate money toward the current projects and the overall local economic, education and spiritual development.

We are so excited to think about the come trip and all that the Lord might allow develop. We feel strongly lead (almost pushed!) to focus on Shimenkan. Please join us, there is much work to be done and we welcome you to join us.
peace:: Cici and Cammie

please see:
http://www.gydpx.org/yb/wn/smk/
and
http://www.guanhaitong.cn/features/stone%20gateway/000.htm

Sanjiang area investigation

2007-06-24T19:51:00.000-07:00

The following is a translation from a Chinese link of a friend of Zheng SiSi (Cici), Hong Bo, who is the leader of the organization Ge Sang Hua (named after a common flower in Tibet). Ge Sang Hua organizes education-related support for Tibetan children. This post was written a few days ago about Hong Bo's trip to Yushu in Qinghai province to visit sponsored children, this May.

This photo is of a mother and child. You might not be able to imagine how they are suffering. The mother's voice box has been destroyed so she cannot speak clearly. When we visited her family she became distressed because she was unable to explain the family's situation to us. She has no husband, and her daughter no father.

When the mother opened her coat, we saw that she had two raw horrific sores on her leg. Despite her vocal disability, she was able to communicate that she had no idea what had caused the open sores, and had no money to seek medical care.

I couldn't bear seeing any more, I doubled over as if my heart had been cut in two. The only thing I am able to do for this small family is to record their story and publish it on our website. The daughter we sponsor is the one hope and joy that keeps the mother strong and alive.

Next, we visited another sponsored child's family. All three generations of women have lost their husbands to the various effects of poverty. The child we are financing and his mother live a bitter and hard life. The grandmother is elderly and trembling from sickness and the mother's children are still young and in school. The mother has never had a father-figure; she has never been to school and she has no husband. In this area, many single women raising families often leave government forms void of the children's father's names, rejecting the possibility of child-support preferring to bear the hardship of raising a child on one's own because the possibility that the child could belong to different men looms dauntingly. In this manner, many of the children we sponsor have no "official" fathers.

This is not unusual in Tibetan culture. In many Tibetan songs, most lyrics praise mothers but seldom fathers. I believe Tibetan women suffer more than we, Han people, can imagine. We cannot compare their strength and endurance of hardship to our own lives.

Tibet is such a beautiful and mysterious land. We believe that the lives of the children Ge Sang Hua sponsors will be much happier than their mothers' and grandmothers'. We know knowledge and education change change children's futures for the better. We hope for your prayers, thoughts, efforts and support.

Foundations etc.

2007-06-06T00:04:00.000-07:00

I am learning about grant-writing, and I've learned one of the first rules is to use networking in order to find foundations that have similar goals as your organization. As so, I am asking for any suggestion of foundations you know of interested in overseas work, especially in the rural areas concerning education and basic needs. Also, a children's English reading room is being organized at the Hangzhou Public Library. New and used books as well as funds are welcome, a foundation or philanthropic organization interested in overseas children's education/literacy would be a great connect. You can email me or leave a message if you have any ideas or know of anyone with any ideas. Peace.

A day of Xiaolan

2007-05-16T19:04:00.000-07:00

A DAY OF XIAOLAN

Shilan Kang, girl, 12 year old, address, Sichuan prov. Mabian county, Minzhu, country, Jinbu(progress)village, Hongcun(red village) group, school Minzhu village primary school five grade class 2.

Family members:

Xiao lan’s parents have worked in city for many years, and they haven't returned home in for two years. Last year they sent home 2000RMB (approx.250 USD) home as the living cost for their children and Xiaolan’s grandparents.

Now at home, is Xiaolan’s grandfather, 65, is in good health, so he does all the field work. Now, he comes to feel his age and he is not strong as before.

Their land is 3 and half basic unit. (Each unit has a field and hillside land). The layout of their land can meet the family’s need. But no, the grandfather is not strong enough as before to work the land, so they have to buy most of their rice. They keep a pig and sell in the end of year.

They seldom eat pork, mostly green vegetable, some times pepper with rice.

Xiaolan’s grandmother, 61, hurt herself once working in the field several years ago, and not has still not recovered. She is sick and often coughing.

Older brother, 13, Guanyu Fan, is in the 6 grade in same school, he is not tall as Xiaolan because he has been weak since he was very small, so by the local culture’s tradition, he has his mother’s name along with his surname

Xiaolan’s younger brother Shishuang Kang is Xiaolan twin, and in the same school, 5grade.

Xiaolan’s father’s sister and her husband also work in city all year round, and leave their two young girls to live together with Xiaolan’s grandparents. One is six and another four.

Xiaolan is a diligent student; she is silent in school and gets along well with classmates. In the home she is a very helpful hand.

Xiaolan gets financial support from an organization, 125yuan (16 USD) each semester. In her home in on the wall she has many awards for study and sport. But recently she is lagging behind in study.

Her family is very popular in local area.

Her family is among the average class. Poverty is widespread in her hometown.

We told her one day ahead that we will take pictures of her day.

April 25, 6am when we arrived, she is already making breakfast. Grandfather and her older brother are not home, the day before he was hurt when play with friends and so Grandfather took him to the doctor in county hospital.

Xiaolan’s morning is very busy. Making breakfast, feeding pig, making sure her brother and cousins get up, have breakfast, wash and dress, and clean up. (most pictures taken in morning) Xiaolan does all this work in good order one by one.

Finishing morning work, she brings cousin to school, now still has one hour before class begin, so she cleans the classroom with the students and then begins to preview lessons.

In class, she raises questions and asks teacher’s help.

At noon, she, her brother and her cousin go back home for lunch. The older brother has arrived home earlier so he warmed rice; lunch food is pepper with rice. Xiaolan’s cousin is tired so she has to carry her back home. Grandfather and the older brother are home now, and he is ok. Grandfather has brought home a piece of port fat, which is the only oil for the family this year.

At , 3:30 back from school, Xiaolan does her homework first for about one hour. Then she brings her cousins to a hill to cut grass for pig…

Dark coming, grandmother is already waiting them home ……

It rained, so we didn’t photograph more, we didn’t want to disturb more of their quite life.

We can imagine, Xiaolan needs to prepare her family’s supper, feed the pig, and she might watch TV with her family for a while, (a small white and black TV) but not for long, because they can’t afford to use money on electricity. She might phone her parents, (they have telephone, but once again they can’t afford much for telephone costs; to them it’s expensive wasteful).

When with Xiaolan came back home, we asked her, “What you will do in future?” She said, “I never thought of that. We said,“ Set yourself a goal and work hard for that”. She said, “I see…”

Sometimes, Xiaolan will pick tea in the hills and sell it for stationery and family cost.

(Article and pictures approved by Xiaolan, copyright by SJA. )

Photo links in below:

http://photo.163.com/photos/gsjczzm/ 农村女孩小兰的一天

http://photo.163.com/photos/gsjczzm/121889573/

Looking for Volunteer Summer ESL teachers in China!

2007-05-15T07:31:00.001-07:00

SJA SUMMER CAMP

Looking for Volunteer Summer ESL Teachers in China!!!

1. TIME:

2007 summer, 2 week program, 4 week program, 6 week program.

2. PLACE:

Hangzhou City, or suburb town.

3. CLASS

Each class 25 students, with one foreign teacher and one Chinese teaching assistant, possibly some student volunteers.

Class will be divided by students’ age, and lessons and events will be arranged correspondingly

4. CONTENT

1. Day-Camp: gathering for young children (below 9) fun games and English instruction.

Safety is the most important.

Lunch supplied.

2. English language and culture learning in lessons and games and events. (to Chinese students)

Improving skills as speaking, reading, listening and creativity.

l Use original English storybooks as lesson materials to learn new vocabulary words, understand stories and act through short plays. Especially geared for younger children (possible to collect enough English books donation)

l Program lessons teaching.

l Translate English stories （excellent American students writing collection）

l English songs and stages. performance

l Topic discussion. Chinese culture priority.

l Students prepare Chinese culture topics to present to foreigners.

l Guide provided to show foreigners around Hangzhou. Each group as a unit, well prepared and organized.

Program will adjust per student levels.

Below 9 Day-Camp, English games and cultural crafts.

Age 10-15, homework instruction, raising interest to English and creative learning

Above 15, speaking, communication, group work translation, and creative learning

More brain storm to be expected.

5. BENEFITS AND DUTIES OF FOREIGN TEACHERS IN HANGZHOU:

l Free home stay, including food and family treatment. Experience real China and Chinese life.

l 8 hours a day (3-4 hours teaching and other hours with students. including 2 professional Chinese lessons,)

l Chinese culture lessons, organized in topic events such as, Chinese knot tying, hand-made flower, Chinese paper cuttings, Chinese boxing, China opera, etc. Lessons in games learning together with Chinese students.

l Weekend city trip and exhibition and out of city trip two day trip every two weeks or four day trip every four weeks.

Teachers must pay for roundtrip air ticket (see www.flychina.com) from America to Hangzhou, daily needs (apart from that supplied by the home stay), shopping and extra food cost and other unexpected cost. Free home stay food and accommodations.

Two night free hotel ( first day after arrive and last day before leave Hangzhou)

6. PROFIT DISTRIBUTION

· We plan to start a new NGO field in Young Adult Development Service, aimed at inner-city teenager virtue, morality, healthy development, anti-social behavior correction and mentality guide.

· SJA summer camp will be an important event to incubate fund.

· Over 50% of the program profit will be as fund to support teenager growing service

7. NEEDED

l Foreign teacher volunteers with teaching experience preferred.

l Original English materials, new or second hand English books for children. Plans to collect enough to set up an English reading room in local community library.

l Sharing with us in English Summer camp program designs and experiences will be greatly appreciated.

Please contact Sissy at: sissyzheng@gmail.com for further information.

BUY PRINTS TO SUPPORT EDUCATION IN CHINA

2007-04-15T19:24:00.001-07:00

Overseas China Education Foundation (OCEF), registered in Texas and granted by IRS as a 501 (c) (3) non-profit charity organization, is dedicated to help less-privileged children in rural areas of China to finish their education up to 9th grade.Due to social and historical reasons, millions of school-age children in vast rural areas of China are still struggling for a chance to receive basic education. Local government and parents are too poor to help. Your care and generosity will help these children to get the basic reading and writing skills with which they need to push themselves out of ignorance and poverty.All proceeds will be used to help needy children. The supporting money is sent to each supported school directly from OCEF and delivered to students at an open conference attended and monitored by OCEF's volunteering coordinators in China.
-each 8x10 print 10$ available in color or black and white leave a comment or contact my email address, cammiebrennan@gmail.com if you are interested

DO SOMETHING

2007-04-15T08:21:00.000-07:00

Dear friends, the organization OCEF provides the opportunity to sponsor primary and senior school students in rural "9th world" (third world county, third poorest province, and the third poorest area in the province). It costs 50$ to sponsor a primary student and 120$ to support a senior school student for one year. Please, I am begging you to do something for these students who desperately need education and education materials. This is something small you can do to make a huge difference in some child's life. Please contact me at my gmail address, cammiebrennan@gmail.com or see http://www.ocef.org/newocef/en/ for more information. The following are pictures of the school, school grounds, dormitories and the students. By sponsoring one you can receive a report of the school and student and correspondence with the student if you wish. Please do something. Please.

2007-03-15T18:58:00.000-07:00

Some of my photography's going to be showing in Independence starting Friday. Drop by if you can. . .107 S. Main Street, Independence, 64050.

2007-03-04T10:18:00.000-08:00

Lately, every time I open my email or facebook account I find another childhood or college friend is engaged, married, with child or has given birth. Besides making me nervous to open my internet accounts, with my 24th (25th in China) birthday looming in the near future (and yes, that is a hint...the 20th of March to be exact) I've started to worry that perhaps my life is substandard or dysfunctional on some level as I am single and definitely not pregnant. Naturally, I was much relieved to find that I have still not hit rock bottom. There's nothing else like someone else's absurdity to give your self esteem a boost.
Ananova.com:
Man marries himself
A Chinese man has married himself to express his "dissatisfaction with reality".
Liu Ye, 39, from Zhuhai city, married a life sized foam cut-out of himself wearing a woman's bridal dress.
"There are many reasons for marrying myself, but mainly to express my dissatisfaction with reality," he said.
"This marriage makes me whole again. My definition of marriage is different from others."
The ceremony was held at a traditional courtyard packed with more than 100 guests.
The 'couple' were led out by a bridesmaid and a groomsman and bowed to ancestors and senior guests for blessings.
Liu says he is not gay, but admits he's "maybe a bit narcissistic", reports New Express.

As one blogger on the faithful www.hangzhouexpat.com site commented, neither individual looks to pleased with the arrangement, but maybe they will fall in love eventually. Go figure. Wonder if it is legal in America.....secondly, how did the cardboard cutout bow to the ancestors. Thoughts?

2007-03-03T09:10:00.000-08:00

My dear friend SiSi Jie introduced me to her friend's amazing blog (mostly filled with pictures because otherwise it would be in Chinese). She volunteers for a small school focused on both academic and spiritual formation and education. She, as a Christian, is in charge of most of the spiritual formation education. She is in the first few pictures, but otherwise it is a great view of rural Chinese life and school children. Something about it just lifts my spirit...hope it does the same for you! Peace

2007-02-28T03:17:00.000-08:00

After the arduous journey of my life, I am finally back in Hangzhou. Happenings in the last week included taking several 8 hour bus trips, seeing Nanning's bus station, seeing Guangzhou, chilling in Hong Kong, visiting XinXing (because there were no tickets out to Guangzhou to home) and finally flying home. I wanted to kiss the earth like pope whenever he gets off the plane in a new country. My 16.3 kilogram backpack prevented me from doing so however.

When I came back from vacation last summer, my house was, as Jackie described it, a virtual refugee camp. With several foreign and Chinese friends setting up camp in my apt. for the last 7 weeks to watch my cat, I had no idea what I would walk into this time. I was surprised. The place wasn't a wreck. My dvd player, tv, and computer were all intact. Mysteriously, however one wastepaper basket was missing, one toilet brush, and one drying rack for my dishes. While sweeping under the bed this afternoon, I discovered that my missing belongings had been replaced with a gift. From beneath my bed I swept out a hand-painted oil painting of a can of Colgate shaving cream on the back of a discarded piece of cardboard. The piece is nice, but hardly goes with my living room decor. I am not so sure the trade was fair.

2007-02-16T01:27:00.000-08:00

The day began normally enough. A calm Lao morning by the lazy MeKong, sipping thick Lao coffee and munching on french bread and cheese. We had decided to go to the Pak Ou caves for our last day of Luang Prabang, but, being as lazy as the river and as relaxed as the Lao culture, we bided our time, checking internet first. With surprising news from home under my belt, Jackie and I set off to hire a motorbike, tuk-tuk or jumbo to take us to the caves (the boats were tooooo expensive) "Tuk-tuk! Tuk-tuk!" the drivers called as we passed their waiting dilapidated cars. "Caves," I said, "How much?" The classic driver squinted his eyes and pursed his lips, "For you? 15 dollars." "Heck no," I replied, we want to go for three dollars a person." (other travelers had told us that was the going rate). "You need more people, then three dollars a person." The driver set out to corral more tourists and Jackie and I settled by the market to bring people into our scheme. I made a sign "Want to go to the caves? Three dollars per person. We need more people." and began calling out to the various foreigners of all ages who passed us. We got a couple nibbles, but no bites. Then I started asking Laos, just for the hell of it, maybe they had never been to the cave. Finally, a foreigner of an unknown origin came over. I was in the midst of persuading her to join us when she told us she'd lived in Luang Prabang for 4 months and the caves sucked. Oh. Well, so much for that plan. We snuck away from the driver....

Instead we spent the afternoon at the National Museum. Towards the end there was a special independent video exhibit on different parts of Lao life. Basically daily labor...not in the home, but for work. Hauling coal, making bricks, fashioning knives. By the end, I was my usual emotional self, distressed by the state of Lao (the most bombed country on Earth, if the UN and other organizations keep moving to clear the uxos at the rate they are, it will take over 100 years to clear all of Lao). As a new years resolution not to be completely emotional over everything I can't control. I kept in my tears. We stopped by the same outside cafe for lunch as we had for breakfast and ordered sandwiches. As we waited I watched a cat (the cat population must exceed the human population in Lao) under the next table. I usually pet them even though they are gross and dirty, they are so unloved. This particular cat, however, was gnawing the head off a recently killed rat. I sort of gagged. Eventually, one of the three other cats watching him moved in, not to eat the rat, but to toss it violently around underneath the table. "Bang" it would hit the top of the table. "Slap" it would land on the bench. Like a trapeze audition, the rat spun back flips and front flips until I knew I was going to be sick. The cat who was originally eating the rat came over to rub against my legs. "No" I thought "don't touch me, rats spread the ibonic plague (Jackie told me later it was the bubonic plague....I never knew) We went on and on about the grossness of the cats when I realized that they we just a small microcosm of of Lao's (and the rest of the world's suffering people) that no one wants to touch or help. And I could feed one cat my sandwich but what about the millions of others? That on top of the new news and the video sent me overboard into weeping as the cat began to gnaw on my leg...I couldn't look at Jackie's tuna fish meat sandwich any more.
Pulling myself together we went to check with a travel agency that was helping me retrieve my forgotten flash drive from the hostel in Vietiane. (it holds all the pictures of our trip up until...well...Vietaine....)The hostel owner had promised for 6 days to send to the agency on the day, bus but had failed to do so. I could only leave him my Chinese address hoping it would find me some day.

Just another day in Southeast Asia. We returned to the hostel to meet the Dutch friend, Bart, that we had met at the organic farm in Vang Vieng. We went to a free movie (Walk the Line) showing at an artsy bookshop but we had to by drinks to stay. We each settled on our favorites, mine,: lime, Bart's: chocolate, Jackie's: chocolate mint. In the end we all agreed that they were the most terrible and expensive shakes we had had in Southeast Asia (there are a lot of "shakes" here, basically flavor with ice and some condensed or coconut milk).
Foiled again by the tourism industry offering a "free" movie we set out to find something interesting. It was Jackie and mine's last night in Lao and we wanted have fun. We almost got it......
Exhausted, we agreed to meet the next morning so I could use my visa, not the mastercard, to pay Bart back for the good times he showed us. The next morning Jackie was laying in my bed, pale from throwing up all night. She had food poisoning. I had to shower and get the money before we had to leave for the plane. I went to bathroom, and noticed the lights weren't on and the water heater wouldn't light up. Going to the front desk I asked "Electricity?" "The city is out of electricity" the man behind the counter slurred nonchalantly as if it happened every Sunday. Great. Surely, I thought, the whole city can't be out, just our quarter. Bart and I head out for the mile walk to the second atm. 20 minutes later, we read the sign pasted across the machine "out of order" Bart asked if I had my passport, then I could just withdraw from the counter, but of course the passport was in the hostel. We headed back, staving off venders and tuk-tuk drivers at every turn. Back again to the bank with passport. As soon as we stepped inside the darkened room, we say, for the first time, the sign on the counter window "no cards today". Why we thought the computer would be working inside the bank if not outside was beyond me. Back again (I got my exercise). Jackie was well enough to walk to we packed, grabbed a tuk-tuk and headed toward the midget airport.

One hour later, we landed in Vietnam. We were happy to know that our hostel driver was picking us up. No fighting for a bus or taxi. Just a man with our name on a sign, like rich people. We had applied been accepted for "visa upon arrival" which just meant we showed them a letter emailed to us and they gave us a visa for $25. Forms filled out and pictures stapled on, I passed over $50 in Lao kip. "We don't take kip. Only USD." Of course. we had $20 between us. "Can I change money somewhere?" I asked. "Yes, come with me. Leave your bag and your friend here, (communists!) I followed his rapid pace through the arrival gate and out to the lobby. "Can I just look and see if my driver is here? I don't want him to think we didn't show up" I pleaded. "Not my problem," was the stiff reply. "Do you have your mastercard?" he asked as soon as we reached the money exchange. "No, you told me to leave my bag...it is in the bag." I took the kip out of my pocket and handed it over. It came out to 35 USD which meant with Jackie's 20 we were fine (we had planned it that way). The guard looked worried. "Where is your mastercard?" "Its in my bag," I said through my teeth. "Plus my friend has 20 USD so we don't need it." We headed back into the arrivals gate. "Come with me." he said. We will get your luggage. "What about my friend?" I pointed, we don't have tons of luggage, but I am a small girl. "No. We need to get your mastercard." "Its in my bag, " I cried desperately, feeling like I was on an SNL skit or candid camera. The guard watched me struggle with my backpacking-backpack and Jackie's luggage on wheels.

We came to a random location and he said "Leave it there, put your Mastercard with it." I gasped. First of all I didn't want to leave my luggage unattended in a Vietnamese airport and second, I didn't have the card. I wasn't like they needed it for collateral, we were certainly going to pick our bags back up--they are our lives right now. Luggageless and cash in hand we headed back toward Jackie. "Mastercard?" he asked. Without bothering to reply,I grabbed Jackie's 20 and counted out $50 USD. "OH!! Friend has money, no need mastercard!" he exclaimed. I wanted to bang my head on the table. I picked up my carry on, paid for the visas, received the visas, gathered the luggage and head into the lobby, desperately seeking our driver, who was, of course gone. Other drivers tried to get us to come with them. "No, we have reservations here. We need to go here." "Oh," said the driver, "I know him, I will call him." Minutes later the driver returned. "My friend said to bring you into town for him, he waited but you never came. Just wait outside here for a moment."

Thirty minutes later, Jackie and I were just about to climb in a public minivan headed towards the center of town when the driver came whizzing around the corner in a taxi. "Get in, get in!" "Is this ride still free?" I questioned. After all, we were suddenly in a taxi. "Yes yes of course!" Ok, he said as we pulled into the old quarter where we were staying, you own the taxi driver 15 usd for the toll and the taxi fee. Jackie and I gapped. Ok, the toll, maybe but he had just said the ride would be free. "You don't understand," I said, voice shaking with anger. "We have exactly 3 USD to our names and you said it would be free!" "The hotel manager will pay you back." he promised. The taxi stopped at an atm and I withdrew half my life savings to pay the hellman. Back in the car, the driver handed me his mobile. It was our hotel manager. "We are now full, no more room." Speechless with frustration a moment passed before I calmly said, "We made reservations last month, you can't be full." "We are, but I can send you to a hostel that belongs to my company. Same standards and same price." Too tired to fight I said fine. We arrived, paid the men and settled into our room, happy to lay down and have hot water for the first time in weeks.

The next day, however, we were evicted from the hostel for not booking a tour with them. I demanded a discount, which after awhile of fighting I got (China has taught me to bargain and fight). Their counter clearly had a sticker for Visa and Mastercard, but as soon as I passed over the Visa, he said coldly, "We don't take cards." Grrrrr! We then the stormed off to the original hostel where I once again demanded a discount on the room for the money we lost by not having the "free ride" included. I am so tired of hostels and credit cards!!

2007-02-09T20:02:00.000-08:00

Lovingly written and shared by Jackie M. Kleist...........

“One of the most scenic boat rides in Laos” the brochure claimed. “A tranquil and relaxing 6 hour ride down the Mekong; observe native bird and fish species in their natural habitat.” The five of us gazed around the tour agency office thoughtfully, trying to discern from the faded posters and piles of glossy pamphlets if the tour was worth two days and $12 (keeping in mind that a large pizza is less than $3.) “Let’s do it,” we agreed, and forked over the money, looking forward to our short and pleasant river journey.

We reunited with our three Israeli friends (Angel, Erez, and Helly) early the next morning, fueled with Lao coffee the color of motor oil and armed with baguettes (since Laos was once a French colony, French architecture and cooking are prevalent.) Anxious to begin our journey, we paced the boat dock, looking for Boat 25.

“That one looks good!” I pointed out a boat with cushioned car-style seats.
“Ooh that one has a bar and a restaurant” Erez gestured to another.
Most of the boats, though weathered, looked comfortable, and all featured comfortable looking seats, ample space for walking around, and a restroom. All of them, that is, except for one forlorn looking craft near the end of the dock. Our worst fears were confirmed; it was 25.
Climbing reluctantly aboard, we settled ourselves on the damp floor of the boat (so much for cushioned seats), which was canoe-sized and slowly filling with water. Various undergarments were hanging from the plywood roof above us, and our female driver motioned to us to “just brush those aside.”

“At least it’s only a six hour ride,” Helly smiled; “it’s 8:30am now, so we should be off here by 3:00.” We settled back on the mats, prepared for departure. All around us, more river-worthy vessels filled with older (and richer) tourists were swiftly departing the dock. The middle aged men and women, most wearing clean white tennis shoes and expensive sunglasses, smiled and waved happily at us as they pulled out of the dock, food, water, and bathrooms easily accessible.

Forty-five minutes later, we were still docked. “I wonder what we’re waiting for,” Angel commented. Our driver, who had made no attempts either to start the engine or recollect her underwear, was perched happily in the back of the boat, spitting sunflower seeds over the side. Suddenly, we spotted the reason for our delay. Six MORE tourists were making their way unsteadily over the rocks, descending towards our canoe.
A half hour later, all eleven of us had managed to wedge ourselves and our belongings into the boat, and we were finally headed down the Mekong, ready for some of that tranquility. Unfortunately, our boat motor was deafening- similar to a Blue Angel jet-making conversation more or less impossible. “LOOK AT THE WOMAN DOING LAUNDRY!” one of us would scream intermittently. “WHAT?” the others would answer. The woman driver spent much of her time crawling around in the boat (for no apparent reason,) forcing all passengers to try desperately to slide themselves and their luggage all out of her way. I suspect she was enjoying this immensely.

Not long after departure, however, the engine began to smoke, slowly sputtering to a stop and leaving us adrift in the middle of the Mekong. The driver, crawled once again towards the back of the boat, picked up a filthy plastic tube, and stuck one end into her mouth, attempting to siphon river water into the overheated engine. This was beginning to remind me of one of our infamous family vacations. After numerous attempts, the woman finally gave up and we pulled over to the side of the river.

A few hours later, (the engine had eventually been revived) the driver dropped us off on a sandbar along the side of the river “to use toilet.” As soon as all eleven passengers were off the boat, she sped off down the river, all of our luggage in tow. She turned around and waved one last time. (Fortunately, I was wearing the money belt-passports and credit cards safely tucked inside.) A group of small children were bathing in the river nearby as their mothers, heads wrapped in tribal cloth, did laundry. Does anyone take Visa?

Fortunately, the woman eventually returned with our luggage (apparently she had gone to visit a “friend” downriver), and, after a little more engine trouble, and SEVEN more hours in the boat, we arrived at the tribal village, ten hours after departure. Ears ringing, we staggered off the boat. I don’t know how much more tranquility I can take...

Aside from the boat journey, Laos has been wonderful. We attended a real Lao party (at a Buddhist temple, no less,) explored a couple caves, and helped teach village children English at an organic farm. Tomorrow it’s onto Hanoi, famous for boat trips to Halong Bay....

2007-02-05T21:02:00.000-08:00

in laos and loving it. its a bit, surprisingly, like the artic but we are dealing. we've been staying on this organic farm which thrives of the mulberry plant and the community who lives there teaches englishs to the village across the street and together they have built a youth center, a community center and a library (which is quite an accomplishment, there are only 3 universities in Lao and only two have any kind of library......) more to come, pictures etc. when i am not paying one million dollars a minute to use the internet. love yall.

2007-01-20T19:07:00.000-08:00

FromJackie'sBlog because I am too lazy to write:
Recent activities: Hosting my first multi-cultural Christmas partyLocation: Cammie's apartment (I insisited I would help her clean up afterwards...little did she know)Highlights: Realizing that inviting 50+ people under the assumption that only half of them will come is wishful thinkingHearing people from ten different countries, (none of them Hispanic,) attempt to sing "Feliz Navidad."
8th Annual International Ice FestivalLocation: Harbin-city of 5 million on the Russian borderHighlights: Surviving the 30 hour train ride en route to Harbin. Aside from sleeping and wandering the higher priced areas of the train where we were not supposed to be, much of our time was spent teaching our fellow passengers how to play "Go Fish."Climbing ice sculptures-the tallest was more than ten stories high- This year's festival featured replicas of Notre Dame, St. Paul's Cathedral, the Great Wall, a Korean City Gate, and....Snow White and the Seven Dwarves.
Journey to the Matriarchal Society of Lugu LakeLocation: Yunnan province, Southwest ChinaHighlights: Leaving the tour group in attempts to discover any remaining fragment of "the real China"...land away from hostals and internet cafes. After hours of disappointment and wandering at high altitude, we tracked down a local Mosuo man in a cowboy hat (think "Marlboro Man") and convinced him to drive us over dark mountain roads so we could drink fermented apple-beer with a local family. The tour guide seemed extremely surprised when we staggered into the hostal, hours late for dinner. "Hmmmm" he smiled. I can imagine the hundreds of foreign tourists who must still be wandering near Lugu Lake, freezing and woozy with apple beer.
Gorging on all of the wonderful food we can't get in China!(Present) Location: Chiang Mai, ThailandHighlights: Auntie Annie's pretzels, mango ice cream, papayas, spinach lasagna, Mexican food, avacados, microwave popcorn, assorted juices, Ben & Jerry's, french bread, real hot chocolate, lime shakes....the list goes on.
Why can't any of these things make their way across the border? After days of high altitude and unheated hostals (I've never slept in a hat and gloves before!) We were overjoyed to descend into Thailand-current temperature 78 degrees at 8:43pm, home of palm trees, tuk-tuks (3 wheeled bicycles), elephants, mountain villages, and Asia's largest night markets. Aaaaaahhhhh, vacation. The next few days will include jungle trekking, trying not to get my hand bit off while feeding elephants, and as many mangoes and papayas as I can eat before heading to Bangkok on the 23rd.

2007-01-07T11:44:00.000-08:00

Hey everyone, this is Katie, Cammie's sister. She wants you to know that she is unable to access Xanga right now due to the earthquake in Taiwan which supposedly interrupted internet lines b/w China and America. She will be traveling for the next 5 weeks, but will stay in touch as much as possible. Happy Chinese New Year!

2006-12-17T02:57:00.000-08:00

While travel planning for this year's spring holiday (ie looking up 7 flights at one time) I encountered this helpful remark: "If you can accept the way turn in other airports,The following is the Hangzhou that we recommend for you to fly to the Lijiang of in turn(onward flight) the flight path.Please choose you feel quite the cheese in turn the city, we will search the service for you "

Since cheese is rare in China we are looking forward to this flight......I think..........

2006-12-13T20:07:00.000-08:00

Someone pinch me. Worlds colliding....my Bob (my Chinese friend) just told me yesterday that the Newsboys (a Christian band from my golden high school years) performed at the largest university in Hangzhou. Well slap me and call me Franklin.
In other news......my new bike is completely safe. Too safe...so safe I can't even ride it. After being convinced by my classmates that the only way to keep my bike was to use two locks, I bought a second one. One bike ride later, the second lock refused to open. It won't even budge. I need to find a strongman to pick it up and take it somewhere to have the jaws of life clamp the lock off, but I've almost decided to roll over and call "uncle". I am quite sure my hypothetical fortune cookie proclaims: "A wise man say: stay the heck away from bicycles."

2006-12-07T06:46:00.000-08:00

I take the 90 minute bus ride home from our other campus ever Tuesday afternoon. I usually entertain myself with my ipod, making up possible dialogues between Chinese people on the bus and sleeping. Last week, however as we got closer to the city, I passed a familiar university, but it had a new bright red banner stretched across the main gate proclaiming in yellow Chinese and English letters "Welcome to the 16th annual conference of alternative reality and teleexistance." If only I had a camera. After being in Hangzhou for a year and a half, someone finally let me in on the secret and welcomed me to an alternate reality........it explains so much....it's all clear now.

2006-12-05T02:32:00.000-08:00

I am like a horse that needs to be put down, for her own good and the good of the others. I have impressed myself. I lost bike number 5 in less than a week. How can I even show my face at the bike shop? I swear they should just give me one out of pity. Speaking of horses, maybe I should just buy a horse instead. A horse would be a lot harder to lose than a bike......maybe....i guess horses can run away.

On the way to work, I lost one glove on the bus. (I bought them Sat.)

On the way home from work I tripped with my hands full of 90 Christmas boxes that my students made in front of a guy I am actually working to impress not earn his scorn.

On the upside, however, I have a new cell phone. Same number. Fiasco of course. The phone was registered in Ann's name and passport number because last fall my office took my passport to work on my visa. I hoped they wouldn't realize that my passport and my phone papers were different.....I mean, all foreigners look alike, right? Ann was just in Hangzhou with her passport until the day I lost the phone. A few days later she had the chance to send me an email attachment of the passport. I took it to China mobile. The girl pondered the paper for awhile and announced "Its too big". "Excuse me?" "The copy isn't the right size, it needs to be the size of a passport." "But look, here is Ann's name, her picture, her number the United States seal.....its all here." "It's the wrong size." "Why?" "It's the rules." "Can't you just skip the rules this time?" I asked getting close to tears of frustration. "No." "So, if I walk down the street to a copy place and get it resized, I can bring it back and it will be fine." "Yes." I leave and walk 4 blocks to the copy place, accomplish the goal and then return. Upon my return, the lady finds my copy satisfactory; she gets up and proceeds to make a copy of the copy at the machine behind her desk. My mouth just dropped open. Now why couldn't she have just resized it herself! i put my head on the table and answered in monosyllables until i got my phone reactivated. Honestly, I think sometimes the Chinese think of THE MOST DIFFICULT way to do something and then proceed accordingly.....mainly to keep everyone employed. Someone shoot me.

2006-12-02T18:10:00.000-08:00

Notice: In case anyone was thinking of calling me, my phone has be absendated from my possession so I have no mobile phone access until further notice. Don't take it personally. You can always email :)

The phone was the last in a long line of possessions gone awry this month. I declared November to be a money saving month, but so far I have lost my keys (twice), lost my bike (I am now on my fifth one), broke my camera, broke my phone (got it fixed the same day I lost it), broke my toilet, had my atm card eaten and finally the phone the other day. So much for saving money....

2006-11-28T20:21:00.000-08:00

Jackie makes me laugh. She is a fabulous writer and I am lazy so, please enjoy her blog:

"Who was I to question the guidebook? I had never expected to find monkeys in Tokyo-but there it was "Nikko National Park, 2 hours outside of Tokyo, filled with wild monkeys." Naturally, following the short description of the park's shrines, temples, and hiking trails was a list of cautionary guidelines: Don't touch the monkeys. Don't feed the monkeys. Don't approach the monkeys. Don't provoke the monkeys. Mrs. Kimura (the mother of the family we were staying with) was quick to agree, noting that "monkeys can be very dangerous" and rattling off a long list of monkey-instigated destruction stories. "They break into stores!" she exclaimed; "they'll jump right into your car-and they Bite!" Absorbed in paper-crane folding, we disregarded her warnings. Though an excellent cook and wonderful hostess, she's probably just not good with monkeys, I thought. Before heading to bed, I grabbed a bunch of bananas off the kitchen table...We rose bright and early the next morning, folding our Japanese-style beds and stashing them in the closet. After a quick breakfast of salmon, soup, bread, and salad with eggs, we set off for the train station.

Though I have (semi-successfully) navigated metro systems in Buenos Aires, DC, and New York, among other places, I was perpetually lost during our week in Tokyo. While most cities are content with 8 or 10 rainbow-colored metro lines, Tokyo has at least 25. Since there are not really 25 distinct colors, some of the lines are "dark red", while others are sort of a "fire-engine red", and others more of a "reddish-pink." Our conversations frequently included in-depth discussion of the nuances of color-Cammie: "I think we should take the light green to the medium blue, and then dark gray."Me: "You mean medium green. Isn't that light gray?" We did meet some interesting characters on the metro...a man from Egypt worked up the nerve to approach us during rush hour, after silently observing us from the corner of the car for awhile. "I am Ahamed! I am an engineer!" he announced. Surrounding passengers, politely Japanese, tried to maneuver away from the loud foreigners in the middle of the car. "I am from Egypt!" he stated at an even higher volume. "Have you boyfriend?" His face came closer to mine. The car was now packed full, making it impossible to back up any further. "Maybe you will come to Egypt," he pondered. "Then, you stay at my house." It was a statement, not a question. He looked pointedly at both of us. "Where go you now? I am free tomorrow." "But don't you have to work?" I reminded him."It's Saturday!" he roared, gleeful. "Where go you now?"Fortunately, our stop was just ahead. Cammie, who had taken a sudden interest in the floor and walls of the metro car, was leaving me to repel the Egyptian single-handedly. We waited until the doors were just about to close, than darted out onto our station platform. We turned to look back through the train windows, smiling goodbye.

In any case, we survived all of our metro experiences, including the ride to the Nikko-bound train. As we neared Nikko, the landscape changed-from ritzy Starbucks-filled neighborhoods and edgy shopping and nightlife districts to small farms, dirt roads, and fall leaves, pine-covered mountains in the distance. The air (though cleaner than China even in the heart of Tokyo) smelled different, fresher. I pressed my face to the train window, scanning the trees for...monkeys.After attempting to buy tickets to any and all of the shrines and temples in the park, which by this point in the day were all closing, (we were sent from one ticket window to the next-"No, you must buy these down the hill. No, you should exchange your tickets at the top of the hill," etc.etc. until everything was pretty much closed) we decided to pick a hiking trail and get down to business-monkey hunting. (Fortunately-we did get to see the original monkey-themed "See no evil/hear no evil/speak no evil" carving.) As we began our ascent up the mountain, I carefully removed a banana from the backpack, peeled it, and waved it around. We passed the Vegas Buddha. "Monkeeeyyyyss!" we called. We even tried making monkey noises. I was waiting to be approached, mauled, attacked even. Where were these aggressive, vicious creatures that the guidebook had warned us about? Not even a movement in the trees. Since it was now growing dark, we reluctantly returned to the main road and set off to find a place for dinner. As we boarded the train for home (refreshingly engineer-free) I swear I could hear monkeys laughing in the distance...."

2006-11-26T06:22:00.000-08:00

Thanksgiving just came late to Hangzhou. Friday I had a wonderful video conference party with Anne, Sarah, Katie, Chris, John and Matt in Chi-town, and today Thanksgiving arrived in the form of Ann Wilson who brought with her an amazing cornucopia of AMERICAN FOOD. Mmmmmmm, mac and cheese, gummies, pumpkin bread, cereal, cereal bars, twizzlers, popcorn, basil, velveta cheese, sunkist orange soda, kiwis, cheezits and cheesy goldfish (notice the cheese theme....). I got to spend a lot of time with Si Jie and Bob, my Chinese friends, this weekend too. Now to study and prepare for class. At some point I will tell about Japan....suffice it to say for now, that in true Cammie-travel-fashion, we missed our flight and were shanghaied in shanghai, hunted for monkeys, visited the Buddha, and extended our trip two days!

Things that make me laugh

2006-11-13T04:12:00.000-08:00

Well, Erin (an English teacher here) heard my plea for baking soda and hooked me up with a tiny shop in her neighborhood that sells "Hammer Noodles". Check it, that's not a hammer, that's an AXE!

Sometimes, my cat likes to kick back with Bob Marley .......

2006-11-09T17:21:00.000-08:00

Good friends, being that you all know sometimes it takes about two months for mail to get to China, I know you must be getting anxious about what you are going to send me for Christmas. Don't worry guys, you can just ask.....and I can just tell you so you can stop banging your head against the wall and singing "Sometimes I Feel Like a Motherless Child."
*baking soda (it makes the smells in my drains "lay down")
*Macaroni and Cheese
*Cheez-its
*Chlorox/Lysol-ish wipes for cleaning
*music

2006-11-04T02:58:00.000-08:00

My students are writing Beth Fullbright Black's students as pen pals. The following is a compilation example letter of my students' first letters to their American pen pals:
Have you ever some interesting things when you say "trick or treat"? Have you ever meet a mean person? Well, I have once dressed up just for fun. Er, I acted a tree. Is that funny? I am a flashman in university. I wish I were an Englishman. It is a joke. I believe you are a lively boy. I want to have a look at you. Please tell me the colorful life of you. I am not interested in hunting, in other words, I have never hunt. In China we have no hunting seasons. I think animals are our best friends so we human beings shouldn't be so rude as to kill them. But there are still many people catching frogs and kill them to eat. Its so terrible. You should really improve your handwriting. I doubt I can hardly recognize it. Happy Christmas, we have Spring Festival, it likes your Christmas day. Auld Lang Syne.

2006-10-30T00:41:00.000-08:00

Ah. Jackie and I went to Nanjing (about 4-5 hours away) this weekend. We stayed with a friend I made over facebook, and I just trusted that he wasn't a rapist or murderer. Luckily, he was neither and we had a great place to stay for free! The sole reason I wanted to go to Nanjing was in order to see the memorial museum to the victims of the Japanese massacre in Nanjing. I've read a lot about it and have heard what a necessary experience the memorial is from friends. Jackie and I waited until the last day to visit. We took a taxi and found a crowd of Chinese waiting outside closed gates. I went and pressed my face against the fence to see the sign announcing in Chinese that memorial is closed until Dec 2007 for renovation. *Gasp* I turned to the Chinese crowd and began pleading my case. I told a small lie that I had come all the way from America just to see this museum, and I was ready to offer the workers there any amount of money to let Jackie and I come in and have a look. Inspired, a Chinese woman climbed the fence and ran to find a worker. She explained the plight of the two Americans and the worker opened the gate a crack, letting Jackie and I in. The conversation was going too fast in Chinese for me to understand. But, a new woman appeared, and suddenly everyone's mood changed. She kept insisting that view the memorial was not possible. Jackie and I both had out stacks of 100 kuai bills (the highest bill) I told her we would give them to her if she just let us have a look, we had come all the way from America. No such luck, she was like a stone. We were shown back to the gate. I cried. Now, I am just angry.
We had a good time otherwise though. We went to the center of Confucian study for over 1500 years. We visited the Purple and Gold Mountains to see Dr. Sun Yat-Sen's tomb and some Ming tombs.
On the way back from the Ming tombs, we were in the middle of these deserted mountains. It was only 6 but it was pitch dark. Jackie and I hurried to join the mass of 20 Chinese waiting for the last bus out of the mountains. When it finally pulled up, people were already packed against the windows and doors. There was no way 20 more people could fit. The driver had other ideas though and began herding us in the side door. The thing is that the Chinese are very pushy to get in line, and Jackie and I aren't. We were the last people to get on the bus. It was sincerely impossible but the driver just kept pushing my back telling me to hurry up, in a deadpan voice. The doors wouldn't close, my body was in the way. There was only one solution. I wrapped my arms around the neck of the Chinese man standing on the step above me, stood one one toe and sucked in. "Ni hao" (hello) I said to his face less than an inch from mine. And there I clung for the 20 minute ride every time the doors opened or closed. I thought I had been in a crowded bus before.....I will never complain about Hangzhou buses again!
We saw the Ming dynasty city walls, made famous by pictures taken of the Japanese celebrating on top of them when they invaded Nanjing.
This week is busy with an international dinner (arranged by Jackie and myself) for our classmates, tonight (I am making grilled cheese!) Halloween part on Tuesday (also arranged by Jackie and myself, we've voted ourselves social chairs of class 1A), Chinese wedding on Wednesday, and fajita night on Friday with some foreign friends. Keeping busy!

2006-10-22T23:02:00.000-07:00

Jackie and I have been busy traveling lately. Last weekend, we went to Suzhou, this weekend, we planned to go to the little water village, Xitang, the place where the end of mission impossible three was filmed. I went there last year with Stephen and Sarah so I was pretty confident in my ability to lead Jackie there. First we had to take a bus to Jiashan then a minibus to Xitang. A friend wrote it in characters for me, but I've gotten a little cocky lately and didn't bring it. So, Sat. morning we headed to the long lines at the east bus station. I got up to the fiberglass window with the ticket lady on the other side, and the little microphone. "Two to Jiashan" I said. *static static mumble* shan?" she asked. "Yes". She gave us the tickets and we got on the next bus to Jiashan. I had remembered the ride only being 1.5 or two hours. An hour and a half passed, two hours passed at the three hour mark I got nervous. I was sweaty b/c there was no air and I had to pee too. I called my friend Bob and passed the phone off to a bewildered passenger who obviously wanted nothing to do with two foreign girls. The phone circled back. Bob:"Um, you are going to Xiaoshan in Ningbo." me:"but I don't want to go there! How far is it from Hangzhou?" Bob: "about 5.5 hours" me: "shoot a monkey."
There was nothing to be done. We couldn't get off the bus. around 3 we arrived in this Xiaoshan. We were optimistic (well, Jackie was) that there would be at least something interesting to look at. We wandered the unfamiliar streets and harassed the locals to tell us a place that had "lots of meaning". The people there spoke their local language and our Chinese is pretty bad anyway. We ended up at a noodle house and took the next bus back 5.5 hours to Hangzhou.

Sunday, however, we were determined to get it right. We headed off early again, this time armed with the characters for Jiashan. One hour and a friendly conversation with a Chinese grandmother later, we made it to Jiashan and then to Xitang. It was beautiful of course, and completely worth even the mistaken trip the day before. Watch out for those tricky shans.

2006-10-05T04:15:00.000-07:00

In Korea!!

2006-09-22T12:59:00.000-07:00

If I haven't made it clear that China is insane.......thanks to Erin and Amana, the following:
Man bites panda
Man joins ancient army
Take the time to read them, it will be worth your while....

2006-09-19T23:56:00.000-07:00

Xiao Fu got neutered this week. I swore I wasn't going to cry, but as soon as I got to the vet and they gave him the shot to put him to sleep and he screamed like a human, I burst in to tears. I swear the attendants at that vet's office have seen me cry more in this past year than my mother has in my whole life. Anyway, all is good....despite a small misunderstanding between another teacher and myself, when he thought I was having the cat neutered at the local supermarket.....I woke up several times the first night to check if Xiao Fu was still breathing but he is kickin it just fine now, even though he is half the man he used to be. In memory of Xiao Mao, I found this picture from last year on my hard drive yesterday. I think I will keep it forever, when I look at it, I realize that things always really could be worse!!

2006-09-18T14:30:00.000-07:00

All right, this post is dedicated to Ashley, who is, apparently, a visual learner. Today was my first day of work. Despite a few first-day butterflies, it was a blast. I am obsessed with my kids already. Here are a few pics of around my house...the campus library...

... the quad..

....the canal...

Jackie is my new friend here. Her passport was stolen her first day in China. We went to Shanghai to pick up her brand-new one this week. We welcomed the new passport into the family with the best Mexican food this side of the Yangtze river.

Saturday night, Jackie and I went out in search of some new friends and good times. It is the first sunny day in Hangzhou since I arrived. I think I'll go out and enjoy!

2006-09-14T11:27:00.000-07:00

I eat in/on/at my bed a lot because I don't have a table. It causes a rather serious crumb problem. I used to eat in bed in college too. Sus always said in a knowing tone "you know what they say about people who eat in bed......" but she never did tell me, and I never did know.

2006-09-10T06:51:00.000-07:00

For the loyal followers of my blog, you now that I'm on my third bike after various encounters with thieves. I had my doubts about coming back after 2 months and finding my bike. Loe and behold, there is was. Elated I ran over to greet "Aunt Jamima" as we all lovingly call her. Only to find that my bike seat had been stolen. All that was left was two spring (talk about uncomfortable). The basket had also rotted out. The whole way to the bike repair shop, Chinese stopped, pointed and laughed. Luckily I was with my new great friend Jackie and we both found the whole thing hysterical as well. When I took the bike in, the repair men got really big eyes.
After replacing the seat and a basket, they informed me that I also need work on my chain, my lock and that I had no brake pads left and a new bell would actually function if I bought it, and air in the tires would definitely improve...well bicycling. Near the cost of a new bike later, Aunt Jamima was kickin it once again.
Jackie and I spent the rest of the day shopping and strolling. I tried to capture the mayhem of the supermarket on a sunday, but this photo hardly does it justice. Just think, people packed in like this throughout a whole super Walmart (or Target, if you prefer).
Finally, I love old people playing mah jong. I mean, it is soooooo Chinese. You can't get any more Chinese than old folks playing mahjong outside.
Tomorrow is my first day of TAKING classes in over a year. I am scared as hell, but I met a new Thai friend tonight, and I think if we stick together we will make it.....first day of school picture to come later......

Finally, I love old people playing mah jong. I mean, it is soooooo Chinese. You can't get any more Chinese than old folks playing mahjong outside.
Tomorrow is my first day of TAKING classes in over a year. I am scared as all g, but I met a new Thai friend tonight, and I think if we stick together we will make it.....first day of school picture to come later......
ps i can see blogspot now, for no reason at all, so feel free to leave comments, I can actually communicate back.

I can't help myself.......

2006-09-07T20:04:00.000-07:00

2006-09-07T10:37:00.000-07:00

I can't sleep. Jet lag....or jet leg as Si Si Jie calls it. Happy to be here, but missing home....My cat got fat while I was away.....Someone tell me a story.....Chicago....I miss thee

2006-06-24T01:25:00.000-07:00

Home!!!

2006-06-19T13:47:00.000-07:00

Sorry it has been so long!!:
Summer has finally hit--pummeled, rather--our fair city. Going outside between hours of 10am and 4 pm is not even a question. For a city that is supposed to be the paradise and leisure center of China, the weather could really use some improvement......amazingly cold in the winter and unbearably hot in the summer.....not that I am complaining....ok, actually I am complaining, I just don't get it.
This week is a terrible combination of good-byes, closings, and excitement. It is so strange to me that my first year of teaching is over. There was a point this autumn at which I really didn't plan on living through it. I'm not sure I've ever had to rely so much on other's since I was an infant. My friends and family at home for emotional support and encouragement, and my friends and family here for getting through the day--supermarket, busses, phone calls, doctors, vets etc. We've ("we" meaning you, my blogspot-reading audience and me) already had the discussion about how switching cultures/countries turns one into a child if not an infant....I can't seem to get the analogy out of my head though. All this to say, thank you to envenomed who has been so so so good to me this year. I can't wait to see you.........3 days!!!!....*gasp/sob/laugh/cheer/sleep/pull out my hair*.......I'm having trouble sticking to one emotion these days.....

The story of the resurrection......according to Cammie

2006-04-15T10:56:00.000-07:00

Exactly one week after Xiao Mao's death, I was on my way to a Saturday afternoon of coffee and a traditional shadow puppet play, when I was distracted from my concentrated crutch-walking by something moving......it was something with a tail....the women who work the reception desk for the foreigners' apartment building were playing with a kitten. A tiny, tiny kitten. A gray, tiny tiny kitten. Jane instinctively covered my eyes (my hands were full of crutches) and Wang Jie (one of the receptionists) scooped up the kitten to hide it in the shed (to protect the sensitive and emotionally-frazzled foreigner). Before she had a chance, I called out to her to stop. I wanted to see the little cat. I figured someone was visiting with it, or it was one of the other tenant's.
"Whose is she?" I asked, holding her fuzzy little body close. "No one's," she replied, "She doesn't have a mother."
"Where did you find her?" I asked. "The dumpster," Wang replied, pointing toward the back of the building.
I knew in a moment that there was no question. I had planned especially NOT to get a new cat, especially not a kitten, especially before I decided if I was staying in China or not, but this little cat had been found in the very dumpster I had left Xiao Mao in one week before. AND it is Easter. There was really no choice. Xiao Mao has been resurrected. (the real question, my sister says, is whether or not the dumpster lid was opened or closed......) I never took the whole "9 lives" thing literally.....but.......

2006-04-09T20:38:00.000-07:00

Funny how you can look at something and know it is not going to be a big deal in 5 years, even 1 year or a few months, but you still can't convince your heart of anything different. We were supposed to bury Xiao Mao last night in the Bamboo Forest, Si Si was taking me there. But plans didn't work out. We planned for this morning but it has been raining cats and dogs (*sarcastic laugh*) all day. So, traveling any where on crutches was out. Plus, neither of us had a shovel. So, there Xiao Mao sat, in an apple box in my living room. Realizing that a two-day old cat can't be any good as a house decoration, I made the only decision I could.....the dumpster behind my apartment. It is cleaned out everyday, so at least she won't make anyone/thing sick.

I've had a lot of time in my house lately, I watch the bird man from my front window and the trash man from my bedroom window. Every afternoon he comes by and hand picks all the garbage out of the dumpster, carefully feeling each bag for signs of recyclable items (you get money for recycling here), pulling out the prizes he finds. It always makes me sick. No one should have to dig through trash to make money, plus I always give my recycling to Yang Aiyi so she can make money. I feel like I am cheating him, he takes my trash but doesn't get any benefits. Anyway, the apple box is something that would be a nice find. I didn't want him opening it and finding a dead cat. I wrote on it, saying dead cat inside please don't open it....Si Si says he will open it anyway.....if you need money you need money.

I couldn't stop thinking about the rain all day. I know she is just a cat, and I know she is dead now but I had to keep trying to convince myself that she wasn't suffering, cold and wet in box in that dumpster with the rain pouring down. It reminded me of how I used to try to talk myself into understanding that my stuffed animals were just fuzz and cotton and that they didn't have feelings or emotions so it was ok if I left him/her in the closet. I never fully convinced myself.

2006-04-08T12:43:00.000-07:00

Xiao Mao died this morning of an internal infection from her spaying operation.

2006-03-30T20:54:00.000-08:00

Preamble: this is not to make fun of the Chinese, it's just the way I get my laughs sometimes.
Behold.......some of my students' (past, present and friends') English names:
*Goris (f) *Yoyo (f)
*Keamo (sabe?) (f) *Yojo (f)
*Neaco (f) *Beryl (is this a name I am unaware of? f)
*Kinky (f) *Shirely (subtley different from Shirley)
*Melons (m) *Gills (f)
*Crow (m) *Hebe (f)
*Resin (m) *Coco (m)
*Yane (f) (I think of Stephen F's Anchorman impressions everytime I say her name) * 2 Fanny's
*Jupiter *Snowball (m)
*Swig (f, she wanted her name to be Swallow, but she it was too long )
*Rainia (f) *Volcano (m)
*Jingle (m)
-courtsey of other teachers
*Grean (m)
*Uranus (m)
*Venus
*Anject (f)
*Snower (f)
Getting through roll without cracking a smile is generally seen as an accomplishment

2006-03-26T23:05:00.000-08:00

know I complain a lot about China, so this blog is going to be 100%, totally and unequivocally dedicated to the things I love about living here::
*taxi drivers who continue to talk to you long after it has been established that you have no idea what they are saying
*the bird-man outside my apartment
*Chinese dumplings
*Chinese babies
*my students
*the gardens (especially the bamboo forest)
*people speaking at screaming volume level but just having regular conversations
*creative modes of transportation--especially regular bicycle riders holding on to the back someone else's moped (in order to arrive much more speedily) and homemade tractors
*tea houses
*public transportation
*recorded bird sounds playing on people's apartment balconies
*laundry hanging anywhere possible (phone wires, trees, tennis nets etc.)
*an addictive simplicity
*Lanzhou noodles
*West Lake in all of its newness blooming
*hiking in the mountains (hills?)
*canals
*merchants who smile when we are bargining
*the chaotic and overwhelming environment of the fruit and vegetable market
*ancient Chinese couples holding hands by the canal in front of my apartment or West Lake
*Engrish

2006-03-25T18:58:00.000-08:00

Being that the majority of my week has occured on my bed, I will substitute requested pictures for boring stories:

My Elizabethian cat::

Me and my wheelchair. On the way home from the vet, Seth told everyone we passed that we'd been a car accident in Chinese. If it looks like I had had a bad day, I had:

My birthday cake(s), so yummy!

Happy Birthday Chris!!!!

2006-03-19T20:54:00.000-08:00

I took my cat to get fixed this weekend and to be declawed. It didn't prove to be as blogable a story as I thought it would be. I took a student with me, and there were almost no understandings. Well, there was one initial misunderstanding when the vet thought I had come to be fixed.....but after that got cleared up..... And, I am sure that my student now thinks I am a psycho because I cried when I had to hold her and they put the shunt in and because I just dropped a whole month's Chinese's salary on a cat. But, I did some research and found out, apart from simply wanted to decrease the pet surplus population, that her yowling would go in cycles until WINTER unless I fixed or bred her. I love sleep too much for that and kittens are the last thing I need now. And though Seth said, "oh I'll fix 'er" I figured the money might be worth it.

I also got to take the motorized pedicab for handicap people home! Pedicabs are outlawed in my town except the kind that assist the handicapped. I've wanted to ride in one since September! YESSSSS. Saturday some of the teachers from Wenling came up and we enjoyed West Lake and the botanical gardens on a simply divine day, had an Indian supper and then went to karaoke to rock out. We joked the whole time because all of us felt like we were in some sort of Make-A-Wish-Foundation outing with my wheel chair and such a beautiful place. (not that we think Make-A-Wish-Foundation is funny....)

Today, my closest friends came to cook me a Chinese lunch for my birthday. It was so good. Sometimes I forget how wonderful they are and when everyone is in the same room it is almost too overwhelming. We laughed a lot and ate a lot of such good food. We are doing a cooking exchange. Once a month we take turns cooking Chinese/western. Its my turn next so toss out some ideas for some dishes that do not require baking, cheese, olives, tomato sauce, bread or meat. (please) I haven't enjoyed an afternoon that much in a long time.

Happy birthday week to: Jane (n/a), Rachel(n/a?), Chris (25), Beth FB (24), Sabrina (24), Kristin N (24)!

In honor of Amanda.....

2006-03-16T13:29:00.000-08:00

(and all the rest who have been pestering me to update this)
This week's news:
*I was in bed more than I was out of it.
*Did some tricking.
*All most all 150 of my students signed the cast (with much wonderment, apparently that's just an American custom)
*Had (and still have) the suspicion my cat is going into heat.
*Did a one-legged anti-rain dance for Cyprus' forecast.
*Realized that the inside of bag I take everywhere smells like my mother's purse did when I
was a child (and still does) and started wondering what Freud would say about that. (smell==minty gum, tissue fluff, things that have been wet and then dry et. nauseam)
*Had a sandwich party
*Been an unusually ardent Chinese language student
*Missed home
*Played the nose trumpet
*Made too many promises to keep
*Practiced poetry with my students

(are you happy now A??)

Please open your.......

2006-03-09T23:32:00.000-08:00

The hits keep coming.....I woke up today with the "getting-things-done" mind set. I started with checking my email (always a bad first choice). The American doc had emailed me to let me know the panel of obligatory blood tests he ran when I was in with my foot had come back and he was worried about some stuff and wanted to run a few more. So, instead of my to-do list, I went to the hospital for a little chat. He had noticed some things were up with my heart and liver function (weird, never been a problem ever before) and wanted to run some more blood tests, an EKG and a heart and liver ultrasound (I think everything is actually fine, that is not the point of the post).

Everything was going smoothly as we headed into the heart ultrasound. The Chinese doctor who was performing the tests couldn't speak English, so a Chinese nurse with less English than my students was translating for her. After the liver ultrasound, the doctor said "somethingsomethingsomething" and the nurse said, "lay on your side," so I did. And then the doctor said "somethingsomethingsomething" and the nurse said, "Now please open your Bible." "My what?" I asked surprised." "Your Bible, open your Bible." I was suddenly confused as to if I was at church or the hospital....or if the nurse was about to give me the last rites.......the bafflement on my face must have been a clue to her wrong vocabulary. "Your Bible," she said again, resorting to pantomiming and reaching behind to the middle of her back." "Oh!" the truth was dawning, "My bra! You want me to undo my bra!" I practically shouted, cracking up already. "Oh, bra......b..r...a...bbbuuurrr...aaaaaa.....aaaaa...bra......" she repeated. "Yes, bra." I confirmed. I continued to crack up for the rest of the examination, giving the oblivious doctor fits............open my bible......ha!

2006-03-08T16:43:00.000-08:00

In my isolation, I have taken to stealing from others' blogs....today's winner is: Fellow English teacher, Erin in Wen Ling::

"Instructions on the back of the vegetable peeler I purchased (spelling errors included):
-Wash it with edible scour before using.
-Don't use it except vegitables aand fruits.
-Take care while using it.
-Don't use it when some dirty things on the holder.
-While use if on the small one,pleaase taake care of youfinger.
-Child can't use it himself, if use it, please under your
-If it is transformative, please don't use it.
-Don't use it unduly in order to prevent distortion.
-Don't use to cut hart things,it's easy to be bad.
-Don't put it near fire.
-After using it, please wash it and dry.
-Don't wash it with metal brush and hard clothes
.-parents reference."

The past two days, my second family here, has taken me out on the town in my wheelchair. Yesterday to dinner, today to buy some DVDs. Once again, if not already the center of attention as a foreigner when I walk down the street, I certainly am wheeling down the street. It doesn't help that Seth is general busting-a-gut laughing at the whole situation. Today, the caramelized-fruit-on-a-stick-seller even gave Jane and I free caramelized strawberries. As much as I get frustrated with Chinese sometimes, they really are so kind and concerned.

In retrospect, I realized I have NEVER seen an every-day Chinese person in a wheelchair, maybe once or twice someone begging, but never just someone going on with their daily life--never even an elderly person. And, I have only seen one person on crutches. It is all very weird beard. What do they do with all of the injured and feeble?

newly obsessed with Trespassers William....they are sort of like HEM meets Imogen Heap meets Sia. Love it!

2006-03-06T15:07:00.000-08:00

Funny thing happened today. My ankle was still sort of killing whenever I......moved.....and I also needed to get some prescriptions renewed (which loyal readers will remember was an fiasco at the Chinese hospital back in the fall) so I decided to pay the only American doctor in Zhejiang province a visit. I wanted to hug him as soon as I saw him (though, he was missing almost all of his teeth and its not that I am prejudice against those with no teeth, it just made me a little nervous!). He was just so.....American...in a good way. He is also I psychologist (his main job here is to draw attention to mental health and modern resources to help) so we sat an talked for awhile about China, moving, adjusting, loneliness blah blah. When he finally got to looking at my ankle he said "G*dd*mn girl, you really bruised the hell out of it."

Upon examination of THE SAME x-rays from the Chinese hospital (where they told me no breaks, only injury to the soft tissue) he realized that I had fractured my foot in two places and torn a ligament and ripped the Achilles tendon. Well, shoot a monkey.
So, here I am.....cast.......crutches....and wheelchair for long distances. No weight may be applied for 3-4 weeks!!! BU HAO!

In line with misdiagnoses, two American friends from a wee city down south came up the past weekend because their hospital there had said they probably needed appendectomies, so they wanted a second opinion at a mildly more modern facility before going under the knife. In Hangzhou, they were told that they did not have appendicitis only severe constipation (excuse me for publicizing this girls). The only problem is that they went to the same Chinese hospital that misdiagnosed me....hmmmm...tricky.......Kristin, Brian and Audrey we need you HERE!!

2006-03-01T23:08:00.000-08:00

(this was apparently saved as a "draft" instead of being right published..........)
I fell again today. I must be hitting a growth spurt (believe it or not). I fell off a curb at city center in the rain today. I was up, then I was definitely down and off the curb watching Seth (still talking to me) walk into the distance while forgetting the language to call him to help and Chinese people swarmed around, concerned. I was so embarrassed, first falling, then sitting in the rain in a puddle until we could hail a taxi in rush hour. Chinese people were staring at me like I had two heads. I am not the kind of person (I hope) that falls often and makes a large deal out of the attention, but it is really is pain like I haven't felt in a long long time, and hopping not walking, is the order of the day....or week/month etc.

Luckily, Seth realized I wasn't participating in the conversation and turned around to see me on the pavement, hailed a taxi and then took me to the hospital (no broken bones was the word) and then home. Most of all, it scared me--scared/scares me to think if I had been alone. I couldn't remember English, much less Chinese--and I don't even know "I've hurt my ankle!" I was/am so helpless.

I am definitely ok. Alive. But I might be in bed for the next year so please call/email me for my own entertainment. I am drunk on rum and filled with painkillers, so I will sleep now, but call if you have extra time!..........

toilet humor

2006-02-26T04:13:00.000-08:00

I fell in my toilet today. It all happened so fast...I am not sure if I can accurately describe what went on. Anyone who has been to my apartment (I realize that this is a small portion of the reading audience, but still a significant percentage) may have noticed that when any amount of pressure is applied to my toilet seat, it becomes a volatile flying saucer which has more than once sent "users" sailing across the restroom (the sadistic side of me loves the sounds of surprise that emanate from the bathroom when new visitors experience flight). All things come full circle though. Over time, I have learned how to perch delicately enough to remain on the stool.....but my time away must have muddied my memory. The only electrical socket in my bathroom is about 5 inches down from the ceiling above the toilet. When I want to plug in my small heater to dry my clothes in the bathroom, I have to stand on tiptoe on the toilet seat to plug it in. Unfortunately, the day before I left, there was a small electrical fire involving the socket and the said heater which mangled the rubber and metal of the plug on the heater. Though the socket was replaced, I was having trouble fitting the mangled prongs in to the socket. While in the middle of this, I shifted my weight, and the toilet seat went airborne, cruising across the bathroom striking first the kitty litter and then the cat food---sending litter, food and water flying. Somehow, I must have jumped off the seat to avoid flight, throwing the heater into the living room to avoid electrocution, but then landed, two-footed, into the toilet bowl......jamming the toes of my left foot in the crook-part of the bowl and soaking myself silly.

I do so many ridiculous things while I am alone. Its a good things no one knows about them!

Up for a swim?

2006-02-23T20:27:00.000-08:00

We found this sign on a beach in Hong Kong, I don't think I am alone when I say a shark bite is more than an inconvenience.....but thanks for the apology.....

2006-02-22T08:18:00.000-08:00

I accidentally wore my pajama pants to teach class on Monday. It was my day of regretting the slimming tea. I had changed into black pants in the morning, but as I got sicker and sicker, I switched to my pajama pants to increase my comfort. I was on my way to class when I realized I forgot to change, and there was no time to go back. It is like those nightmares when you go to school naked....only not quite so bad. Anyway, let's hope that is not an indication of the rest of the school year!

Thanks for all the support and encouragement. It means so much to both me and Zheng Si Si. Thank you, really.

2006-02-20T23:16:00.000-08:00

I am not sure how to approach this, but I just found out my dearest friend here, Zheng Si Si's father is dying from a stroke. She is a single mother, unemployed, looking after both her parents who are living with her and her 8 year-old daughter. In her free time, she basically looks out for the poor and underprivileged of this entire nation (mainly Tibet and Southern China, as well as local folks). She is completely reeling. I've never actually dealt with a crisis situation in China before. I never know what to say in America, much less when someone is hurting here. "Comforting" words hold even less meaning.
All this to say, I have to do something. Si Si is my entire lifeline here. /She helps me survive everyday though she has so many worries. I hate to ask this, but can anyone contribute any money? I have some to give, but it won't even come close to covering the cost. Among foreigners here, it is discouraged to just come to the rescue with cash......as it is dangerous to the social structure, personal development and responsibility, and international relations(mainly, westerns have the money, so let's just let them do it). But I don't have time ethical squabbles right now. If anyone reading this could just send 5 dollars to my parents home, they can deposit it in my account and I will withdraw it in kuai and give it to Si Si as a gift of love from my dear community. It is so little for us but so much for the Chinese (average employed wage is about 5 dollars a day) All I can do is give you my word that I will do with the money what I have promised and hope you will trust me.
And, if you are a praying person, please do that. Si Si has been a Christian for about 2 years and I am afraid I see rocky times ahead for her. If you are a praying person with a great phone plan (tel3advantage for example...specifically kt and chris, jane, kristin etc. etc. etc.) you could call her at 8613958014443 and pray for her in person (her English is great, but speak slowly with no special Christian language). She really gains strength through prayers spoken to her and I am unable to do that right now. Or, if you want, email her with a word of encouragement <sissy_zheng@hotmail.com> and just let her know you are a friend of mine and wanted her to know you were thinking/praying for her. I know it might be awkward, but all I can do is ask for some help. Please.
Thanks for listening and helping if you can. LOVE!
email me for my parents address if you need it cammiebrennan@gmail.com . i don't want to exploit their home on the internet.
ps the pic is of Si Si at my halloween party as a mummified chicken.......don't ask.....

confessions of a veggo

2006-02-17T00:00:00.000-08:00

At heart I am a vegetarian. In theory too (I've been reading for Buddhist theories and Gandhi's take on the subject lately) but I had a break-down in Bangkok. I am not really sure what happened, and I was so nervous to tell the truth. I started feeling really bad...just lethargic and irritable. In the 7-Eleven, I passed the tuna. After I passed it, I couldn't stop thinking about it, it just sounded SO good . Two days later, I gave in and bought some. After that, there was no stopping me. I was out of control. Tuna everyday. I am done now. My holiday is over, and I must return to being an honest vegetarian. I just had to let you know.

I'm slowly transitioning into real China life....first Singapore (which was clean-out-of-control) and now Hong Kong. I could do without Singapore, nothing to fabulous there but a lot of laws...oh, but the merlions were great........and Hong Kong is wonderfully entertaining. I am also with 5 other aimless lower-twenties people and that is encouraging :) It feels strangely wonderful to be back in a smoke-choked net bar listening to the manufactured sounds of violence from the PC gaming and the blaring Chinese rap.

2006-02-12T21:31:00.000-08:00

I am coming to the end of my rapidly fraying rope, mentally, physically, spiritually and ecumenically. (can anyone name the two movies I just quoted in that one sentence????) Cambodia makes me tired. I gave blood at a children's hospital today (which was another horror show of its own inside.....remind me never to get sick outside the united states). There is a Dengue Fever Epidemic and sort of a blood crisis. A Greek girl came in shortly after me and we were chatting it up as we reclined with needles in our arms (I must say, I have never started a friendship in a blood bank before, and on top of that, when it was all over, we found out we had the same blood type......fate.......). She told me she loved Cambodia to the point of obsession; the energy of the place she said. I almost fell off the blood donating table in disbelief. Maybe it is because I am tired of traveling, or maybe I just can't deal with the country, but I will be glad to get out of here on Tuesday. Glad I came, but glad to leave.

At some point this week I told Jane, ":I have to get out of here!" The oppression, pain and poverty are suffocating, every time you go out, people are literally pulling you in a million different directions at once. I mean, I have been to Third World countries before, I currently reside in one for that matter, but I have never seen such desperation. People pleading with you to separate with your money. I felt so trapped.

Jane reminded me that that is exactly the point, poverty is trapping. And how lucky are we to be able to escape it. I just can't take it.

Furthermore, every time I open up my email box I am driven to tears by either good news or awful news from my community. I loathe being away from it. How I ever managed to find such amazing amazing people is beyond me and I hate hearing of their hard times that I can't help them with. It also hurts to miss their celebrations as well.

2006-02-10T09:50:00.000-08:00

I am finally out of Phnom Penh.....a place I never want to go back too....ever.......Jane and I visited a few typical tourist spots like the National Museum, the Silver Pagoda (the floor is all silver!) and the Royal palace, but we also made it too some horrific sights. With the Khmer Rouge reign in the 1970's over 2 million Cambodians (one in every 5) were executed in the name of fanatical communism. We went to an old high school that had been converted into a prison and torture center for Pol Pot's prisoners. Over 17,000 prisoners were taken to this center (called s-21 then, Toul Sleng now) and only 12 survived. The Khmer Rouge would arrest the entire family of a wanted "criminal"and then in due time, execute them all after several months of torture.

They documented every part of the process with written biographies of the prisoners, pictures of their arrival and then their deaths. The Khmer Rouge abandoned it quickly as when the regime came to an end in 1979 leaving evidence in abundance of their horrific crimes. The museum left everything almost exactly as it was.....chains, torture weapons, blood stains....and has also taken effort to display the pictures of every prisoner; man, woman and child. Pictures line room after room. Pictures of people alive, and pictures of people with their entire heads blown away, or bloated from being purposely drowned, or with bubbles coming out their nose from the acid poured down their throats.
I've never been to Germany, but I am sure the concentration camps must be like this too. We also went to a place outside of town known as the "Killing Fields"; acres of land filled with mass grave after mass grave of intellectuals, professionals, and enemies of Pol Pot where over 200,000 bodies of men, women and children where discovered. There is a stupa in the middle, filled with hundreds of thousands of skulls arranged by sex and age. In the sunken graves scattered across the field, bones and pieces of clothing still protrude from the ground.

Ironic, that these museums are made to honor the dead and to encourage the living to never let this happen again. Tourist file through and murmur their horror and shock, shaking their heads......and in a few decades, the same thing will repeat itself in areas like Sudan, Rwanda, and Bosnia....our children with file through the museums, murmur their horror and shock and shake their heads at the terrific tragedies that we are allowing in our current lifetime.
To see a better picture (and to be really depressed), rent the movie "The Killing Fields"

We left Phnom Penh by boat....roof of boat actually. We traveled up the Mekong River on the roof of a passenger boat with 50 of our closest Cambodian travel friends for 6 hours until we reached Siem Reap, the site of the largest worship complex in the world, Angkor Wat. Unfortunately, the sunburns Jane and I recieved yesterday are unforgiving and we decided to spend the day out of the sun and resting. Angkor Wat has waited for some 800 years, it can wait one more day.

2006-02-05T22:50:00.000-08:00

I don't know what they are calling it these days. (I was going in a completely different direction, but when I typed that phrase, I thought of coming into our guesthouse last week and seeing a cluster of people around a ground floor window. They were looking at two people practicing massage on some mats and pillows..."I guess that's the activity room," said Jane....."'Activity,' eh? We call it something different these days," I replied.)

Anyway, I don't know what they are calling it these days, but Katie and Chris have decided to live their lives in way that is somewhat in communion with the poor. When they talk about it, I always think that it sounds so great, like something I want to do someday too.

I have changed my mind. I have no desire to ever live in poverty like they do. I know it is dreadful and selfish to say. If this trip has taught me anything, it is that I love my luxuries. I love my bed. I love having heat in the wintertime and a-con. in the summertime. I hate smelling myself and dirt-encrusted nails make me nervous after a few days. I like soap bubbles and I love hot water. I must floss before I go to bed and I secretly revel in getting to visit the dentist. I don't always have to have complex, expensive food......but I like organic and fresh, and sometimes I must have to have pizza or something ridiculously unhealthy and delicious and cheesy (mmmm, cheese). I long to have technology at my fingertips (with a diet coke on the desk). I am possessive of my free time, I like to have an aesthetic environment, and I think it is fun to put together weird clothing combinations. Travel makes me think, makes me smile, makes me hope; but it is such a luxury. So many of my students have never been out of their hometown, much less their province.

I am not saying that I would die without these, but I want them. I really really really want them. But maybe that is the point......that which we love becoming a distraction.

I don't know what the answer is.

Going to Cambodia tomorrow...another uplifting journey......for information on the recent reign of Pol Pot see http://www.pbs.org/frontlineworld/stories/cambodia/

"the elephants got out just in time"

2006-02-02T13:49:00.000-08:00

I am entirely toooooo sleepy for my own good. All this good weather and smiling people can make me want to nap. I miss the nap. It was such a staple in my college life. This week, we went to the rainforest to ride elephants. Our elephant was most amiable and sooooo big. I was quite surprised. I guess from afar, they seemed much smaller.

We also went to the New Life Center here in Chiang Mai. The New Life Center is a shelter for girls that are either at risk for prostitution or are ex-prostitutes that have been taken/sold from their villages into brothels and then rescued by Thailand Social Services. At the Center, the learn a trade as well as an academic education and they are also protected from brothel owners/ fathers who want to get them back to their detriment. It was a good but really really hard visit. The manager of the Center gave us a tour. We got to meet the girls and she told us their stories. The stories where unimaginable.......families abandoning or selling their girls, the conditions in which the brothel owners kept the girls----having to service 30-40 men a day combined with very little food, sleeping on the floor and being abused. It seemed unbelievable that these girls were standing in front of me, strong and smiling. I can't imagine living through that pain (physical, mental, spiritual, emotional) and not simply dissolving into little disposable pieces in some dark corner and disappearing. It gave me a passion for wanting to work with those girls in the future (I have to get an emotional grip first).
for more infomation on the new life center see: http://www.newlifethailand.org

Don't tell my mom I went to Burma........

2006-01-30T12:00:00.000-08:00

I went to Burma this weekend. One of my life-time goals has been to go to Burma. I may have only spent about 15 minutes there--but I was definitely there. Jane and I left Phuket for Bangkok and then took a night train to Chiang Mai. Jane has friends that are church planters in Chiang Mai who have been working with Hmong (sounds like "mung") minority people about six hours southwest of Chiang Mai. After a quick shower we piled into three trucks and took the long journey through the mountains to Mae Sot. It we spent three days in the tiny village that the government has set up for Burmese refugees.

The village was having its church-opening ceremony and a Hmong wedding. I loved it because we traveled with Hmong, Thai and Laotian students from Chiang Mai to Mae Sot and once we were there, they helped us meet the villagers and tour the village. The village (called "village 9) is located about 2 kilometers from the Burma boarder and you can see the majestic Burmese mountains towering in the not-so-far distance. It is saturated with Burmese, Hmong and Karen people who have fled the terror of the "State Peace and Development Council" ruling party. On Saturday, I piled in the back of a pick-up truck with 15 other Hmong and Thai students and we headed to the amazing waterfalls in surrounding mountains. We spend the day wading through the cold water, splashing each other and climbing the falls. (Thankfully, a 12 year-old Hmong girl attached herself to me and saved me from tumbling down the rocky falls to my watery grave multiple times.) Saturday, I also went to Burma with two other Americans who needed to renew their visas by re-entering the country.

On the day of the ceremonies, the village men slaughtered to cows for the communal lunch (I refrained), and over 400 people gathered to witness the goings-on. It was an absurdly wonderful trip, but also sickeningly difficult. It is hard for me to imagine the terror and suffering under which these people must have lived in Burma, their courage to slip over the boarder, and now the hardships which they deal with in their village (horrible water sources, rampant disease, exposure to the elements, discrimination by the Thai government...) We held a 2 hour "clinic" in the afternoon. Seeing villagers with health problems. There is a nurse from America who has also been working closely with Village 9. It just seemed so ridiculous. Malnourished children being giving 10 multivitamins. Women with wrists swollen with arthritis being given 5 Tylenol. The people here are doing everything in their power to relieve what suffering they can, but the options are so limited and temporary. Just a band-aid on a deep, festering wound. I am so overwhelmed with the futility of humanitarian efforts that I could scream....or just take a nap.

I was further frustrated by the ingrained sexism in the village. I don't know what my problem is. I consider myself an open-minded person...but when I see others' differences that I don't agree with I get so angry. So so angry. In Thailand men have a higher status, but in the village, the breach in status between women and men is extraordinary. Men get to sit while women stand. Men eat first always while women watch. Men are permitted to have multiple wives. I don't know if I feel frustrated because I am a women and therefore feel sympathetic, but if you could just see how hard these women work in these villages. Perhaps they marry at 16 or 17 and start having children right off (no birth control of course) until they have 8-10 children. They will carry one on their back, one on their front, one on their hip and have the hand of another. In this position,they will assist their husbands in the fields, be responsible for the sewing, cooking and cleaning as well as their millions of children. I am not saying the men don't work hard. I just feel frustrated that these amazingly capable, intelligent and gentle women see themselves as second-class...their value only seated in their childbearing capabilities.....I could just dig a hole and climb down in it--frustrated with people and myself; I don't know where the line is between tolerant and taking a moral stand.

check out http://www.infoplease.com/ipa/A0107808.html for little summary-roo of Burma's government and geo-political relations

Happy Birthday Dad!!!!

2006-01-26T16:16:00.000-08:00

Thursday, January 26, 2006
Back from the beautiful ocean. It would of course rain our first day in a resort town (when I went to Santorini, it snowed for the first time in 15 years) I suppose that is what makes my travels unconventional. Aside from the rain, I still got a sunburn, which I am loving in January and also got a lot of time to relax, read, and listen to music on the beach. I certainly can't complain!! I also learned a lot more about the destruction and terror during the tsunami. Due to my overdeveloped sense of motherness to the world's children, I spent much of the grieving for the children and families I didn't even know that must have suffered so much, I just can't imagine being responsible for a child in that situation, and being unable to hold on. I was glad to see that so much had improved in the past year (homes, business etc) but I know that in Pakistan, and even New Orleans, people are still suffering silently from natural disasters now that the media spotlight has shifted. It seems like such a hopeless situation.

2006-01-22T11:05:00.000-08:00

The last few days in Bangkok have been wonderful! This country is nicknamed the "Land of the Smile." It is incredibly true....moving from a country where people are often kind but intimidating or avoiding to a place where the street sweeper looks up at you with a brimming smile has been a welcomed changed. Ying has taken us everywhere from night bazaars to floating markets, temples and galleries to the red light districts. We have taken ferries, tuk-tuks, taxis, motorcycles and the subway. The food is AMAZING. Tomorrow, Jane and I are going to the resort city of Phuket to see where some of the aid from her church went during the tsunami. I am excited to see a new part of the country and maybe some beach and margaritas!

2006-01-13T00:00:00.000-08:00

I leave tomorrow to begin my Spring Festival holiday travel. I will be going with another teacher, Jane. We plan to go to Guilin/China, Bangkok, Phuket and Chiang Mai/Thailand, Phnom Penh and Siem Reap/Cambodia, Singapore and Hong Kong. There is no chance of me being prepared before I leave, so I thought I might as well post. I hope when I come home from this journey, I have some sort of clarity about what I should do for next year.
There is a canal that runs in front of my apartment. Between the canal and my building is a small park running the length of the canal. Every money while I put together breakfast, I can see elderly men and women doing their morning exercises along the canal: tai chi, aerobics, stretching and jogging. In the afternoon there is an old man who comes everyday--bringing his birds. He carries two large black birds in separate cages. He stops at a small pavilion directly in front of my door and settles. He begins to methodically clean the birds cages; unfastening the bottom and placing the open-bottomed cages on the grass so the birds might hop about and explore through the grass. He cleans the bottom of the cage off in the canal and talks quietly to his birds while he waits for them to dry. The whole process takes about three hours. I think he must love those birds so much. It is strange, I don't even like birds, but it is one of my favorite parts of the day to see him so carefully taking care of the little creatures.
I hope to post while I am traveling, but I am not sure what sort of resources I will encounter. In the meantime, feel free to ponder and reflect on this sign we found in Suzhou:

2006-01-06T17:08:00.000-08:00

"Today, was one of those days where I have that certain ache, where I'm full to the brim with love and anxiousness for my students-- where I try so hard to catch each particular pain, eagerness, fear, hope or grasping for connection, so I can flash recognition into their eyes. " My friend and fellow teacher,Jen Sullivan, wrote this on her "pieceofmyself" blog (hope you don't mind if I borrow it, Jen). I read it a couple of weeks ago and feel like I couldn't begin to express the way I feel about my students right now any better.

I had individual oral exams with each of my students this week. They are so wrapped in curiosity and earnestness--I would do anything to draw out any discouragement or unnecessary pain they have and fill the void with love and encouragement. I don't know what makes me think I have anything better to give them, but I want to (though I'd like to wring a couple of their necks first.........).

The rest of my family left today . Well, theoretically. We actually (keeping with the theme of the past three weeks) had a bus station mishap and missed the right airport bus---meaning they left one hour later during rush hour. The bus driver acted like it would be an act of the Buddha to get them there before their flight left, much less the suggested two hours before. Otherwise, they may be back. In fact, I selfishly wish they would miss their flight. I have surprised myself once again in being very sad by their departure. It isn't that I don't love them, just I just imagined I was an independent adult that needed her own space. My wee bit of an apartment has gone from 5 people to one person and a sleeping cat so briskly. I feel lonely. They say that is supposed to be good for you, feeling lonely......it just seems like I am coping with leaving home all over again. I know I will adapt eventually...I have so far.
Thanks for listening.
ps my students are fascinated with Christmas cards. If you still have the old ones people sent you this year or in other years, if you could send them to me, my students would love it. Thanks!
Cammie Brennan/building 11 apt. 102/Hangzhou Teachers College/no. 222 Wenyi Road/Hangzhou, Zhejiang/China 310012
cheers!

2005-12-13T14:30:00.000-08:00

*sigh* I have been told I need to up date. Demanding audience............ so, here is my cuteface Xiao Mao. She loves Christmas too, especially while I am wrapping presents!

the neys have it, I am not a yogi

2005-11-29T16:21:00.000-08:00

I am back home. Home. So strange to call this place home. While I was gone, I missed it terribly. Of course it was brilliant to be away, but coming home was good (minus the dishes that I found molded in the kitchen sink...). I remember that was the first time I loved Jewell after hating it for over a semester. I went to a get together of some of my high school friends, and I counted the minutes until I could go back to Jewell.
Soon I have a yoga lesson. I have been going with Zheng Si Si lately. Which reminds me, I never told the story of my first class. We were late coming in. The class participants all stopped in their various contorted positions to stare at the foreigner (not to mention I was by far the youngest). As we slipped mats into the back row, I quickly realized I was at a disadvantage. Being in the back, I couldn't see the instructor and of course couldn't understand her. Soon, her assistant noticed the floundering foreigner in the back row and came back to put my body in the positions. The problem lay in the fact that, while I knew what positions my body should be in, I hadn't stretched for ages and all of my muscles protested loudly at the thought. The assistant, however, thought I just had no clue what I was supposed to do, so she took it upon herself to force my limbs into their proper place. For example "bring your knee to your nose" (while laying on our back) Well, my knee wasn't coming anywhere close to my nose so the assistant started sitting on the back of my thigh to force it down closer to my face. Unfortunately, I don't know the Chinese vocabulary for "get off of me". "Put your palms flat on the ground" instructed the teacher, once again, my finger tips touched, but my palms refused to lay flat........so the assistant tried helping me with that one too. All the while, the rest of the class is turning around fascinated at the complications going on with the foreigner in the back row. Furthermore, Niuniu (who came to watch the class) had given me a piece of candy on our way to the class. Without thinking I just put it in my bag. During class, she realized she actually wanted to eat the candy and remembered me putting it in my bag so she started rooting through the contents of my bag to find it. While I am concentrating on not punching the assistant in the face....I hear a rustling noise coming across the floor. I look up to see Niuniu, walking toward me while concentrating on getting my tampon open. She comes over, asking me to open it so she can eat it. (Tampons are not available in China, most Chinese don't know what one looks like). Horrified, I told her, no! it is not food, you can't eat it! My Chinese friend who had come along to help translate for me, said "can she look at it, even though it isn't food?" I tried to explain to my friend what it was, but unfortunately I don't have the Chinese vocabulary to talk about menstrual periods and she doesn't have the English vocabulary. So, finally, after some curious pantomiming (that was definitely not part of the yoga routine and was driving my assistant out of her mind) I got the message across. The look of horror that crossed my friend's face threw me into a fit of giggles which echoed around the quiet room with it's relaxing music. I have a habit of having laughing fits in completely inappropriate places at inappropriate times. I couldn't get a grip. So I laid down on my mat (my assistant finally threw up her hands and left me) until I could look Xiao Yun (my friend) in the face without losing it again.
Hopefully, this class, is more relaxing than last.

japan pics

2005-11-28T10:45:00.000-08:00

Here are some pics from Japan, my sweet J-niece, Aoi-Chan, and my J-niece/nephew to be, Oka-san and Yoppie and I at the shrine festival with our lucky rakes (yes, I said lucky rakes) and one of some of the J-sisters together.

2005-11-22T17:00:00.000-08:00

After　considerable delays, I finally made it to civilization. I went to Shanghai on Friday with Seth and the Hewitts. It was great, but really a shock to be in such a modern city. The trip was mostly a culinary tour. We ate Mexican, pizza, diner food and lots of coffee. While we weren`t eating, we visited the Shanghai People`s museum. On Saturday night, Seth took me to the Bund and we went to the top of the 4th tallest building in the world to have drinks. It was incredible to sit so high up, looking down on a city of 16 million. (see pictures of Shanghai from the bar and from across the river) Sunday I flew out to Osaka then Tokyo. Coming here has been like coming home....my room, my chopsticks, my sisters, everything is familiar! Everything is clean! And I can`t get over how accessible coffee is!!　　Lately, we have spent a lot of time with Eriko and Aoi-chan. I can`t believe it, she is going to have another baby! She is so brave! We also went to this amazing shrine festive in Shinjuku last night. The shrine`s grounds were packed with people buying lucky rakes to bring them fortune for the upcoming year.
Unfortunately, I heard two days ago that Anne Caldwell`s best friend died in a car accident. I never met Kristy, but I know how important she was to Anne, and I can`t imagine losing someone like Sarah or Susan...I would be devastating, I can`t imagine. I hurt for Anne and wish I could do something. It makes me never want to go far from the people I love again.

Happy Thanksgiving!

2005-11-21T22:50:00.000-08:00

communists, I tell ya what.........

2005-11-16T22:14:00.000-08:00

A spiritual/theological paradigm (para-dig-mm) shift occurred in college, wreaking my life permanently....I am afraid I am about to have a post-college social-philosophical paradigm shift. Yesterday, in my newspaper class, we were talking about poverty--particularly poverty in urban areas--I was encouraging my students to get angry about the mistreatment of migrant workers in the cities. They looked at me blankly. "There isn't anything we can do." They proclaimed. "Yes, yes of course there is!" I said. We argued and discussed for 40 minutes. I felt like the naive child encouraging the hardened solider to pursue utopian ideals.

After class, I talked to two students for a bit. "How can we help? What can we do about poverty?" They asked. I encouraged them to take action in small ways....writing to their government, educating their friends and family about the problem, and long for social volunteer programs that provide services. They looked back at me disappointed. "It doesn't matter if we do those things....it won't make a difference.....we can't do anything by ourselves...."

I was speaking with Jim on the way back home. And I realized the difference lays in that from birth Americans are told they can accomplish anything.........one person does matter....one person can make a difference.......but here, communism says that the group is the only thing that can make a difference.......the individual is just part of the group.....alone, nothing can be accomplished. So here we are, I think I am right, they know they are right. It is strange, for the first time, I realized it could be a lie--I don't know why I never thought about it before. Maybe one person can't really make a difference without the strength of the group. Just like theological constructions crumbling, my ideas of purpose in life.....my reasons for believing that I can do something, anything to ease the pain in life shattered.

In the midst, I felt the disappoint of not being able to fit into this society in a way that brings relief, brings love, brings meaning, brings true community. Foreigners are so limited in their ability to volunteer here....and even if I could, my language is so limited, I wouldn't be able to communicate on a level that matters. I am afraid I never will be able to.

2005-11-13T07:15:00.000-08:00

In response to a request for more pictures......I always forget to take pictures of things, but here is one of my two babies, Niuniu and Xiao Mao and another one of my dearest friends here, Zheng Si Si, Su Jian and Wu Fang......I need Corrine or Susan here, my favorite obsessive-compulsive photographers. Life is good right now......better than last week anyway. I am getting very very excited about Japan on Sunday! Ahhh, civilization....family......cheese........

......

2005-11-06T15:00:00.000-08:00

I want to update, but I have absolutely nothing interesting to say.......any suggestions? questions? comments? By the by, I can see my blog now (for no obvious reason in particular, so feel free to post)

Halloween............

2005-11-02T21:20:00.000-08:00

Well, the Halloween party of the century is over. About two hours before the party, I remembered that I have social anxiety, and I absolutely hate people coming over in mass expecting a good time. So, naturally, I freaked out and burned the apple crisp and just prayed for the night to be over. I think the other American teachers saw a new side of Cammie as she flipped out. In the end, after bobbing for apples, pin the little pumpkin on the big pumpkin and a game of who-can-dress-your-partner-like-a-mummy-using-toilet-paper-the-fastest, the night turned out to be a success. I am glad I had the chance to give a tiny something back to the Chinese who have helped me so incredibly the past few months. Here are some pictures.....Zheng Si Si (she was a rooster) bobbing for apples, the mummies altogether and my cat as a mummy (Wu Fang and I think we won, we were definitely the fastest mummy wrappers), a cute little mummy and my friends Zhang Dan and Yvette as cats. In other news, Ann came to Hangzhou for a day. She brought me a suitcase full of wonderful American treats (thanks to all contributors). Also, there was a small flood in my kitchen tonight as the pipe underneath the sink became unconnected. On the downside, I went wading for about an hour, on the upside, my kitchen floor has never been this clean!

By the by, thanks to dear ol' daylight savin's, for those of you in Central Standard time, we are now 14 hours apart.......just add two hours and switch the am/pm part and you've got it right............but you can call anytime!

teaching

2005-10-25T18:30:00.000-07:00

There is such an interesting dichotomy here. This country is in the 21st century in relation to fashion, language, media, and commercialism. It would be easy to walk around Hangzhou and forget that China is still a third-world developing country. On the other hand, in terms of living conditions, hygiene, medical standards, and social responsibility, China is still far far behind. I look at my students in class and it would I would never guess that they live 8 to a dorm room the size of my office in buildings that have no running water or heat. They take showers outside with no hot water (what will they do in the winter, I don't know) and they collect their drinking water at night from the cafeteria. I realize these living conditions are not abnormal for third-world developing countries.......it is just bizarre to see the gap between the facade of people and cities (clothes, hair, modern stores and restaurants) and the inside of homes, cafes, and people (i.e. seems that everyone has cavities in every tooth and parasites).

I could shake my newspaper reading kids. They told me point blank yesterday, while we were talking about race relations and oppression of minority groups in America and China, that they couldn't care less about the topics. I asked them what they would like to study and they all said pop stars. The maturity level is at junior high with my juniors. They see absolutely no reason why they should care about anything besides pop culture. Individual responsibility for bettering some aspect of this world is non-existent. I want to somehow unlock that for them, help them to see what we talk about does matter. It is important to learn so mistakes aren't repeated and so one person can do what they are able to make a difference. I am particularly surprised at their inability to think outside themselves and pop stars because this is a communist country--one would think they would be more community focused. Seth keeps reminding me that my job is to teach English, not to save the world and convert my students into world-conscious people----but I feel like that is what my professors did for me. Seth says I have an exalted view of my professors and that if I didn't have the interest to begin with, it is not something my professors could have taught me. He tends to be right about most things, but I still don't agree with him. I feel responsible. A teacher's job is not only to teach the subject matter, but also to teach about being a responsible global citizen.......and Chinese teachers aren't doing it for these kids.....

pictures as of late

2005-10-25T18:00:00.000-07:00

xiao mao

2005-10-09T17:01:00.000-07:00

Right. I took Xiao Mao to the vet. I was planning on leaving her and coming back when the surgery was over, but they told me to sit and wait in the completely vacant examining/waiting room. Before they took her back, I asked if she was a girl or a boy. One vet said girl another said boy....I should have known then that this whole Chinese vet thing was a bad idea. They took her to the back room and a few minutes later I heard her screaming bloody murder. I jumped up and ran to the back room--they must be de-clawing her awake! By the time I got back there, her scream intensified. I am a horrible pet owner, I told myself. When I finally pushed through the crowd of assistants and vets surrounding Xiao Mao, I realized they were only clipping her claws and she was being a complete baby.....ahhhhh....though, quite glad they weren't de-clawing her awake, I still wanted to make sure they were, at some point planning on de-clawing her. When the difference between clipping claws and taking claws out was finally established, the group of Chinese vets gasped in horror at the inhuman thought of removing a cats' claws (no smart remarks Patrick)...."We don't do that in China" I was told (well, call George W. up, the Chinese have trouble with human rights, but they sure have animal rights down).
Next was her shots. I can't imagine how a parent ever lives through taking his or her child for shots. Xiao Mao had three injections in her extra-neck-skin-spot. Each time she let out the most human-like scream I have ever heard from an animal.....it was if she was getting a spinal tap. I mean, my cat at home cries when she goes to the vet, but it is just because she is scared, she barely notices the shots at all. So, this torture thing was new to me. Apparently I was overdue for an emotional break-down because I started sobbing in the examining/waiting room while all the Chinese vets watched fascinated at the crazy foreigner and her screaming cat. I eventually pulled myself and my cat together and left. I am sure I left them with the impression that all Americans have an unhealthy dependency the comfort of their pet. Unfortunately, she has follow-up shots in two weeks!!!

talons, weddings, and canes

2005-10-07T10:15:00.000-07:00

Apparently, the rain in China falls mainly on Hangzhou. Actually, I love the rain, so no worries. It gives my world a cozy autumn feel. Unfortunately though, it also makes me tai lazy! School starts up tomorrow. Though we had the week off, we have to make up the classes this weekend. Weird beard, that is a Chinese holiday for you. I've decided to Xiao Mao to the vet (maybe today if the rain lets up). She/he needs his/her shots and, furthermore, she is causing complete disasters on my blue fake-leather couch. Personally, I could care less, but I am fairly sure there is something in my contract about not destroying my furniture. So, I am afraid she will by talon-less soon. I hate to do that to her/him, especially in China. I mean I would never submit my child to surgery in China......who knows if they will even put her/him to sleep.........but, fortunately, Xiao Mao is my cat, not my child.....so......farewell talons............... Seth made the call to the vet for me. It was a rather hilarious event ("claw" isn't exactly something you learn in basic Chinese) he paced my living room saying "zhao" over and over in different tones, the whole time making claws with his hands as if the woman on the phone could see.....I think he finally got the message across. I suppose we will see.
There are some other teachers visiting us for the week from a little town (by little town I mean only 1.5 million) about 3 hours from Hangzhou. They have been rather blown away by the convenience of Hangzhou. Watching their awe has helped to remind me how really lucky I am to live in this city, though I complain like a broken record, it really is a great place to live......there is an ancient Chinese poem..."Above there is heaven, below there is Hangzhou and Suzhou..." so I'm pretty lucky. Yesterday, Mary (one of the the teacher's that works here daughter) and I took one of the Winling teacher's for lamb kebabs and Muslim onion flatbread. On the way home, a bent old woman with a cane blocked our path, begging for money. We made to go passed her and she straightened up and began running after us with her cane raised trying to intercept our path. We laughed about that one for awhile...we'd never seen such a miracle.
Happy birthday week to ANDY Wommack (22) and happy wedding week to KRISTIN Stonebraker and BRIAN Gillenwater....I wish I could be a present bridesmaid rather than absentee

happy national day-week

2005-10-03T15:00:00.000-07:00

The days I love this city sneak up on me. Autumn has decided to bless our little town of 6 million. I saw my first changing leaves today. A typhoon is sweeping the coast, giving the air a damp delicious chill (I am actually wearing jeans and long sleeves!!). I went on absolutely divine walk in the rain and treated myself to a lunch of my favorite street-food (um, I am addicted) barrel-roasted sweet potatoes, Muslim flat-bread with onions and sweet milk tea. Walking down the street, I could smell chestnuts roasting and sugar crystallizing, I could almost imagine I was home. No, curled up on the couch with two dear friends (coffee and The O.C.) I am truly enjoying my holiday!

changes

2005-10-02T22:59:00.000-07:00

I am not going to Japan. I got was on my way there but I had some complicated transportation issues (sus and sarah, think haggis tour slip-up or Matt, think London-Amsterdam bus miscalculation...) and never ended up getting out of the country. I read a book a few weeks ago about a Hispanic adult living in the US. An observation was made that moving to a different country causes one to become a child again. I am beginning to think it is true. I can't read or write here. I understand little, and can't really do anything sucessful without help. For the most part, it is very necessary for a Chinese person to be holding my hand.
Luckily, this country is full of willing helpers. For the most part Chinese are eager to help foreigners in any way they can. Though I am disappointed about my silliness, I have determined to spend my week studing Chinese so I might be a little less childlike in the future and also to do some art projects, something that has been sorely missing in my life since I moved here.

because I have to get my kicks somewhere

2005-09-22T22:40:00.000-07:00

This is my sister. Not only is she special because she is remembering the Alamo, but she has also sprouted a Texas flag from her scalp thanks to the tropical Waco environment. I must say, the pictures on my computer provide me with more entertainment than I ever would have guessed. (so don't be surprised to see yourself on here some day!). Sorry for the last depressing blog, I think my influx of completely devastating movies in the past few weeks has rather affected my usually sunny personality (that was irony). I am tackling each moment with a determinant to be comfortable in the completely unknown of the future and to enjoy my time here. It really isn't too hard. My kids are wonderful, I think I laugh more during class than I teach--I never know what is going to come out of their mouths--the food is divine, and it is exciting to being comprehending a language! Furthermore, I have actually been receiving the mail that has been sent to me. I believe I declared last blog that I couldn't remember my last hug, I realized lately I am so silly and forgetful. Remember Auntie Yang (the gatekeeper with the rooster in her bike basket?) I can't understand a word she says to me for the most part (for some reason, her Chinese is particularly incomprehensible) but she checks on me every few days and fiercely hugs the life out of me before she leaves. I have no clue where she picked up this habit (it is uncommon to hug in this culture) I think she must know that foreigners need it!
This weekend, some of other teachers and I are going to Suzhou--a city known as the Venice of the East. We are quite excited to spend a little time outside Hangzhou. Perhaps I will have some more exciting mis-adventures to relay soon!

I want to bang my head on the table and sing "sometimes I feel like a motherless child"

2005-09-19T21:00:00.000-07:00

Some days I love China. Some days I absolutely hate it. Today, I hate it. It is an all-consuming, passionate, frustrated hate. It sort of blocks out any rational thoughts. Laura Mims, a teacher who taught in my province last year, told me before she went home, that each day's outcome drastically depends upon one's attitude--I know this is true, but even my most valiant efforts toward positive thinking fizzle before lunch-time. Things are challenging here, but sometimes I don't want the challenge, I crave familiarity. I crave touch---affection touch. I am surrounded by 4 million of my closest friends all day long practically standing on top of me but all I want is a hug (aren't you proud Susie?), or a hand, or just to lounge next to a friend (oh for the days of the red couch or The OC and Happy Tracks marathons).

On the lighter side, a very very very happy birthday week to Anne Caldwell (23) and Erin Burroughs (8)!! I miss you!!

2005-09-18T23:50:00.000-07:00

Happy mid-autumn festival!!!!! (it is today!)

I know Katie, Emily and Patrick all think they have the cutest, best cat in the world.....I hate to disappoint them and steal the glory---but I am fairly sure my new kitten (Xiao Mao) is the cutest, sweetest, funnest cat in the world. I mean, look at her wee little face. How can you not agree?????

sorry its been so long since I posted. I am not dead (though I did spend about 2 hours in the police station the other day over some visa issues and I started to think I may never again see the light of day). Teaching is going well, my freshmen are even more hysterical than my juniors, and I am sure they think I am from a different planet (I am a little weird sometimes, believe it or not). The good news is, I now have internet and drinking water (and a cat) in my apartment. My living standard has improved rather well.

2005-09-18T23:30:00.000-07:00

better late than never

oi! internet in my apartment! these are some pics from Tibet, sorry they are so late.......

well blow me over

2005-09-06T11:48:00.000-07:00

I could view my blog today for the first time in China. Honestly, I wonder when I will stop being surprised by the shear randomness of this country. Anyway, I thought you might think it was interesting. I am using Seth's (another teacher) computer in his apartment from last year. This gives me hope that whenever I get the internet in my own apartment, it might let me see my blog too and then we can all go back to posting! (but i am not getting tooooo hopeful). I found out yesterday that the freshmen don't come until next week so I have the rest of my week off. I think I am going to do some road-tripping out to Quzhou and Suzhou or Shanghai. I'll catch up with you again soon. (you can still call me if you miss me :)

if you weren't inspired by the orphanage pictures....

2005-09-06T11:40:00.000-07:00

this is a copy the email and some pictures Zheng Si Si sent me today....... once again, if you want to help, or know anyone ele who would be interested, just shoot me an email!

i visited two families in Tibet Dangxiong county, above 4000m, near namchu lake. One family father died, and 4 children, older brother takes care of animals with his mother, and older sister study in mainland high middle school, in Jiangsu province near Zhejiang. 1900yuan rmb a year. she had no money so in her 4years study in middle school, she only visited home once, and the trip was finaniced by others. in picture is the young sister, now in primary school. a young brother also in school now. they are one of the most poor families among locals though most local families are very poor, it is a hard place to survive. Another family is a very big family, with a lot of children, also an infant in tent. these children are not healthy, because of poor nutrition. the man with glasses in pic is a local doctor. he is a very very nice doctor. he worked in a county hospital, and volunteered to work in this hard country area, 4yrs, i asked why, his explain, these farmers when to county hospital, their illness already too late to be cured, country lack doctors. his wife still in county hospital, is a nurse, and support him very much, they have no child. he is also a poet. he is well admired by the local people, i can feel when i was with him

just another day in china

2005-09-04T14:45:00.000-07:00

I moved today. I feel guilty moving from a perfectly fine home to an even nicer home. I am grateful for what the school has given me, but it just doesn't seem right that I ought to be living in the lap of luxury when the other teachers on staff, the students, and the rest of the college community are living at a sub-standard level. I want my house to be a place people can always come visit, but I am ashamed of its niceness and don't want Chinese to come over....it would be like saying "hey, why don't you come over to my place so you can see all the nice shit I have that you won't ever be able to have, even though you are a hard worker, because i am an American and you are not." Argh.

I can't believe what I am seeing on the news about the aftermath of hurricane Katrina. I know the subject has probably been beat to death in America, but here we've only been getting a bit of news about it. I know people are the same everywhere, but it just seems that the anarchy that is going on should be happening in another country or another era. It is strange to read about how everything has been turned on its head in New Orleans. It is truly unbelievable and dreadful.

I went to the hospital the other day. No worries, I am fine, a Chinese friend was just helping me to a prescription for meds I take in America, so I can buy them here. First, though, I had to be examined. Like a regular hospital there are examining rooms, but when you get there, you take a number and wait outside the door. When it was finally my turn I went in. I hadn't been in the examine room for more than 2 minutes before the door opened and some Chinese people that were waiting for there number to come up shuffled in . Then a few more people, and then more, and more, and finally half the nation of China was standing in my examine room to see what was wrong with the foreigner sitting on the examine table.It was like a play in which the starring characters (the doctor and I) have speaking roles, and then there is the chorus that speaks in one voice. The doctor continued the examination taking no mind to the 20-plus people in the room with us. He knew a little English so he would ask me a question, make a note, and then turn to translate for the group. In unison the group would then respond to the answer with "OOOHHH," or AHHHHH and the like. He started asking what the medicines I was taking were for. I answered grudgingly and then he turned and told the curious group "Oho!" they responded. By the time I left the hospital, I am quite sure that everyone there knew the exact details of my medical file. Ah, well.....just another day in China.

I start teaching tomorrow. I got the textbooks this afternoon. I have a three hour class on "selected newspaper readings" and then later in the week will have my oral English classes. I am very nervous, but I am looking forward to getting started. Too much time in idleness causes one to become a little self-involved--I am reading to be a little others-involved.

recipe help

2005-09-02T08:50:00.000-07:00

Whenever I get around to moving, my Chinese friends want me to have a housewarming party and they want me to cook American food. That is all fine and good, but for the life of me I can't think what to cook for a group of about 10 people. It can't contain meat, pasta, tomato sauce, or cheese (because I don't eat meat and there isn't any pasta, sauce, or cheese here) and can't bake anything (because I don't have an oven). So, if you have any suggestions, I am desperate. Thanks.
p.s. I am feeling guilty b/c my sister sent me her blog today (see the link brennan homiak's blog on the sidebar) and it is so full of wisdom and self-examination etc, I am sorry my blog has nothing of this sort to offer!(but it does have rooster stories!)

have you ever tried to buy a slip in this godforsaken city???????????

2005-09-01T23:05:00.000-07:00

I met with my Chinese friend Su Jian yesterday. For those of you who have been following my life for more than this blog, you might know that he is my former Chinese crush. Yes, I said former Chinese crush. Though he is the only Chinese person I have ever been attracted to, and he is amazing and wonderful and pushed my bike for two hours so I didn't have to, he is former. As much as it pains me to say it, his girlfriend is moving to Hangzhou next month and he is planning to ask her to marry him so I've decided that I can no longer pretend she doesn't exist. *sigh* But aside from that crushing (no pun intended) news, I had a wonderful time with him. Yesterday was the best day I've had since I came here. Su Jian's English is such that we can branch out into various topics w/o being fettered by a vocabulary barrier. I felt like I was with a friend from back home. I can only explain it as being relaxed in conversation. Most of the time when I am conversing with folks here, I am very tense, thinking of what I will say next, how I will say it in a way that they can understand me, and what we can talk about that they have the English vocabulary for. It was a welcome change! Somehow I shall manage to beat down my undying love for him and settle for friendship.

So the official moving day is here, and in Chinese fashion, there is no moving going on whatsoever. Furthermore, naturally, no one has a clue when or where we might be moving for real. School starts in three days and we have no rosters, no classroom assignments, no textbooks or daily class schedule (i.e. what time the classes begin and end). Ha. This place is a trip. I am not sure I will ever get over my bafflement at Chinese logic.

Also, I would like to announce that the winner of the "Who-responds-the-most-to-Cammie's-blogs" contest is........drum roll please........Corrine (Cream) Cooper!!!!!!1 Now, I know those of you that didn't win will protest that you didn't know there was a contest going on.......I kept it a secret so I could see how you acted naturally, without the impetus of a contest.

clarifications

2005-09-01T11:30:00.000-07:00

protests on the contest already!!! just clarifying there wasn't really a contest and I do love everyone equally whether they respond or not. Furthermore, while I think Su Jian is great I might have gotten a little dramatic and carried away in my last blog. I am not as heartbroken as I made myself out to be. But it is true that I haven't manage to find a slip in this whole city. No exaggeration there. Honestly people, can't you recognize good sarcastic, dramatic humor anymore?????????????

it's true

2005-08-30T21:27:00.000-07:00

I am sure some of you have heard the rumor by now, and though I hate to admit it publicly, it is true--my bike was stolen. Now, before everyone gets rilled up at the audacity of a Chinese person so come on my campus, track down my bike and break the lock to carry it off--first hear this: I left my keys in the lock. Oh, I would love to say it isn't true--that some barbaric thief took off with it in the night, but the truth is I was practically begging someone to take my bike in broad daylight. I had just come back from the open market selling fruits and vegetables, feeling particularly proud of myself for conquering my fear of bargaining for produce, when I found my bike was missing. Appalled that someone would go to all the trouble to break the lock for my measly little bike, I frantically put down my armloads of produce and began dumping out my bag. My keys were 100% absent. On top of this, the same key chain that held my bike key also held the keys to my apartment building gate and my apartment door key. I realized that not only did I have no bike, I also had no way of getting into my building, and furthermore someone had my keys that had been so cleverly marked with my building and apartment number. The chances of me being murdered in my sleep had just escalated. I was sitting on the curb, surrounded by produce and the contents of my bag, wondering what to do next, when our gatekeeper Auntie Yang came cycling by. She saw me and came over. Despite the fact that she understands no English, I managed to convey to her that my bike was gone. She called some security guards over and everybody discussed it for a long time. I had no way of explaining to them in Chinese that my house key had also been taken. Finally a grad. student noticed the commotion and came over. She spoke a little English, so I told her I had left my keys in the bike and now that the bike was gone so was my house key. She nodded and explained this to Auntie Yang who responded. This girl turned back and replied "She says your bike is gone because you left your keys in it." "Yes, I know!" I cried "That is not the point, my house key is gone, I can't get into my apartment." "Oh" she said and translated. "Auntie Yang says next time you shouldn't leave your key in your bike, otherwise someone will take it." Ahgrr. I tried explaining myself again and she translated. "Auntie Yang says your bike is gone, you shouldn't worry about looking for it, someone has taken it because you left your key in it." I was almost to the point of tears (as you might remember from the post entitled "the day i spent a week in the gobi desert" it doesn't take much to bring me to tears) not only did I not need to be reminded one more time that I had been really ridiculously stupid by forgetting to take my keys out of the lock, but also I was standing in a sea of fruit and vegetables and my emptied-out bag and all I wanted to do was get into my apartment. During all of this conversation and translation, I realized the shopping bag in the front basket of Auntie Yang's bike was making noises and moving. Finally, curiosity got the best of me and I leaned over to peek in the shopping bag, and there was a rooster. A rooster, of all things to carry in your bike basket. The conversation stopped momentarily and the grad. student translated for Auntie Yang who was now making clucking noises "It is a chicken." Obviously they assumed anyone silly enough to leave their keys in their lock would also, naturally, be unable to identify farm animals. Finally, at some point, it clicked (or clucked) and Auntie Yang realized I didn't have my house keys. Next came a tirade of what pretty much ended up to be "Why didn't you tell me that in the first place!" And we set off to remedy the problem. Luckily, I am moving tomorrow and can stop laying awake wondering if the person that has my key is going to drop in unexpectedly.

p.s. please excuse any errors in the post as I am typing on a computer that's keyboard is completely void of letters due to a massive amount of wear on the keys. For the most part I know where all the letters should be, but sometime I mistype and can't find the right letter!

feeling helpful?

2005-08-29T13:30:00.000-07:00

These pictures were taken by my Chinese friend Zheng Si Si while she was in Lhasa. She visited Dickey Orphanage (Dickey means happiness in Tibetan) where a Tibetan woman who owned a teahouse decided to start an orphanage for Tibetan children in 1991. In the past 14 years the number of orphans she supports has swelled from 12 to 81. Unlike most orphanages in China, the Dickey Orphanage is privately owned, so despite their poverty, the owner works hard to make sure these children get an education and experience a loving environment. Zheng Si Si said she was surprised by how joyful and outgoing the children were as a result of their caring upbringing. These orphans are still supported only through the money the teahouse (also pictured with the blue sign: The Snowland Happiness Teahouse) brings in which around 200 kuai a day, or about 25 dollars. Otherwise, it relies on the donations of Tibetans, Chinese and foreigners. Upon her return to Hangzhou, Zheng Si Si has been working to drum up donations of clothing and money for these children. I thought I would mention it to my faithful blog-readers, in case anyone feels like helping out or knows anyone that would like to help out. So, if you are interested in helping, or know someone who is interested in helping (maybe a great cause for a hall activity, sorority, fraternity, church group or any other helpful organization or individual) please let me know (via email or phone, not posting, please). I also have some more pictures of the orphanage, teahouse and individual children if you are interested.

don't you know the piggers??

2005-08-28T13:00:00.000-07:00

Wei ni hao. Nothing much new here. Yesterday, a new friend, Bao He Jun took me out on the grand tour of Hangzhou. We visited the city centre square, some shopping districts and West Lake. We ventured out on a fishing boat to visit the islands that dot the lake (one island is called "three pools mirroring the moon" now that is romantic) It was great to spend a day out practicing my Chinese (did I mention that I've had my first lesson with a tutor......I need some serious practice). Bao He Jun also taught me how to work my rice cooker (minus the rice b/c I didn't have any in the apartment, but I think I got the general idea). Futhermore, I have been reminded by a good friend that there is little point in planning a formula for balancing Chinese and American life--I just should passionately act, live, and love and somehow things will fall into place in their own time and in their own way. So, I'll be trying that, rather than worring about everything!

i'm not creative enough to think of a title right now

2005-08-26T04:00:00.000-07:00

I had the most amazing wake-up call this morning. My parents decided to have a little party with veggie pizza (ah, my favorite) and chocolate and invite some friends (my friends) over to call me. I was too suprised! Aren't they great parents and friends? Yes, the are. So I spent several hours this morning talking to my Aunt Jane, Susan Tharp, Corrine, Christy, Emily and my mom and dad. It was absolutely the best morning a person could ever have. I was afraid when everyone hung up that I would be a wee bit depressed, but I was actually inspired and I ventured out to explore this crazy place on my bike. Unfortunately I am a little dangerous on my bike, but I managed to stay alive. The sidewalks here are not just for people walking--they are for people, bikes, pets, farm animals, mopeds, vendors, cars, taxis and the occasional bus--sometimes I think the street is safer than sidewalk! In the long run, I did cause one small bicycle accident--but it actually wasn't on account of my horrible cycling techniques--someone just decided to stop watching where they were going to turn around and stare at the foreigner riding a bike (what?????? white people can ride bikes too???????) and there for ran smack into some man intersecting her path. Ha. Now she knows that staring at foreigners is not productive. But, in my cycling I discovered the bamboo forest, which is exactly what is sounds like, and the shortest route to West Lake (the site that makes Hangzhou famous).
I am having a problem for which I would love some helpful advice. I am having trouble trying to balance my life here with my life in America. It seems that I want to find things here, food, music, friends, housing appliances that mimic my life at home. I want to email, blog, write letters, and talk on the phone with my community at home b/c I still want to be a part of that life. But, I am in China. I haven't come all this way just to duplicate my life at home as closely as possible. But, at the same time, I can't just start a new Chinese life--I'm not strong enough and the people at home are too important. So, where does that leave me? In a dither of dichotomous tension--I need balance, but I am having trouble finding it! Suggestions and monetary gifts are welcome.

H-town at last

2005-08-23T21:00:00.000-07:00

Well, I am here now. I moved into an apartment that will be my home for the next two weeks. They are gutting my next apartment currently (it is next door and exactly the same as where I live now, why I have to move I have no idea). Until I move I won't have internet in my room so I am using the net-bar down the street. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Also, the Chinese think it is really interesting to stand behind me and watch while I type and try to read the English. I actually don't like this game as much as they do. Anyway, Hangzhou is a nice city. The rainy weather and horrid pollution complicate the breathing situation, but things could be worse. I bought a bicycle yesterday and I've actually ridden the city bus twice by myself (I got off at the right stop only once though) so I am feeling more independent. I miss talking though (strange). I can go all day now w/o talking to anyone (but myself). It isn't bad, it is just strange. I don't know when school starts. My boss has told me so far the 1st, or the 4th, or the 5th. This isn't helpful. Tomorrow, though, I will meet with the vice-dean of the college and the dean of the english dept. and hopefully get a schedule and more info. I need your help though. I won't have a book to teach out of so I will plan all the lessons out of my head (dangerous). I hope to dedicate each week to a faction of life (i.e. friends, family, health, celebrations etc.) and each day to an aspect of this faction (so if we are talking about health: exercise, hygiene, not smoking etc.) and simply learn vocab about the topic and discuss etc. But, I need more help. There are a hell of a lot of school days in a year. If you have any ideas for factions or sub-faction topics email me. It doesn't matter if you think they are creative or not. Anything works! Hope to talk to all of you soon!

The day I spent a week in the Gobi Desert..........

2005-08-23T20:30:00.000-07:00

The account of a journey I don't plan on ever taking again: I left from Lhasa bright and early Monday morning. Despite my bright and earliness, we barely made it to the plane taking us to Xining. Unfortunately, our Land Cruiser broke down on the way to the airport (have I heard this story somewhere before...?). Funnily enough, it was the exact same Land Cruiser and driver that took us to Everest and broke down on the way. Oh, the irony.....anyway, we did make it (barely...the airport people always want to take our diet cokes away when we go through security, it is highly annoying and sort of a sore spot). After arriving in Xining, we hopped a bus for an hour to the bus station. Next, we transferred to another bus for a 4-hour ride to Lanzhou. We had read in Lonely Planet that Lanzhou is notorious for getting passengers stranded at the train station. For some reason, we though b/c of our forward thinking planning, we would be an exception to this. When we got to the station, we found that all trains to Dunhuang were booked for the next three days. Oh my. After about two hours, Ann accidentally ran into a train-ticket-broker who sold her two over-priced tickets for a 9 hour train ride in hard-sleeper to Jiayuguan. The person told us Jiayuguan was only 2 hours from Dunhuang via bus. We decided that moving in was better than staying put. In the meantime, I was asked to join a religion that is illegal in China by a street evangelist and I also got in trouble with a policeman for loitering. Eventually, we hopped on the train around 10.30 pm. The next morning, we found ourselves in the desert town of Jiayuguan. Immediately, we went to the information desk. We found that the bus to Dunhuang actually took 10 hours (apparently the broker was a little off on her estimation) and the train took 4-5 but didn't leave until the evening. We decided to take the train (not really a difficult decision) and spend the day seeing the western end of the great wall (neither of us had ever seen it). The day actually, aside from our tiredness, was very fun--involving lots of climbing, camel-riding, and jiaoza-eating. We prepared for the train that evening. As we got on we found out that actually, we had "no-seat" tickets. In China there are five classes of train tickets, decreasing in comfort and price: soft-sleeper, hard-sleeper, soft-seat, hard-seat, and no-seat. Usually, with a no-seat ticket, one can just find an empty hard-seat and take it. This situation was different. Being as the hard-seat cars on the train are one of the cheapest ways to travel in China, half the population of China is actually in one car. There are families that have been riding the train for two days or more, camped out with their kids, family pets and farm animals. There isn't a spot for luggage, so it just sits on the floor or in the aisle. Then, there are all the no-seat people sleeping on the floor under the seats, in the aisle, in between cars or in the bathroom. We boarded the train with all our luggage (we both had a backpack and a medium-sized suitcase on wheels). We found two empty seats and settled. There is something about the Chinese when they are communicating. Not only is the language a very harsh language, but they also have a habit of yelling irritably, even though they may not really even be angry. It is very intimidating, especially to me (I hate hate hate getting in trouble). All this to say, though we thought the seats were unoccupied, they actually were people's assigned seats that had gotten off the train for food. When they came back, there was an outrage. Ok, please imagine a car of over 100 chinese people who have had two days of train riding with nothing interesting. Already, seeing the only foreigners on the train is exciting. Seeing the only foreigners on the train being completely chewed out by angry Chinese, is even more interesting. Seeing the youngest foreigner burst into uncontrollable crying is even better than that. Ann kept telling me to stay put but everyone was yelling at us and the person next to me was trying to bodily push me out of the seat for the Chinese man. I couldn't understand anything that anyone was saying and I was so tired. I realized I couldn't make it in this culture of yelling and disregard for politeness and this language that I have no hope of ever understanding and the dam just burst. Once the dam burst, it was over, I was hysterical. I knew I had to get a grip, but I couldn't. The faces of my family and friends kept appearing in my head one after the other and I couldn't believe I had left such an amazing community to come here....I felt that I would never see them again and I couldn't stand it. Before long, the whole car was silent and standing at our end of the car, simply watching the foreigner in hysterics. That everyone was silently watching me made me embarrassed and I cried more. I tried to get up so I could just leave and go to another car, but the Chinese around me wouldn't let me get up. They thought I was responding to them not wanting me to sit, and they all felt so bad they wouldn't allow me to stand up. This made everything worse. I was honestly a sight. Ann left to see if there was a place we could sit (away from this car) in the dining cart. While she was gone, an English-speaking Chinese student came and asked me what was wrong. There was no explaining, of course. He said "cammie, everyone is watching you, so you shouldn't cry." That didn't help. Then, people on the car started passing water bottles and fruit to me. Soon, I had a lap full of peaches and bottles, but I couldn't lift up my head to look into the eyes of these people. I was mortified. The student kept saying, "see, Chinese are really very nice." "I--I--I know!" I would sob back. Pathetic, it was really pathetic. Long story short, Ann and I made it to the food car. I ate some peaches and water and got a grip (a tentative grip) and we returned to the car. Everyone was seated again and when we came in they got so excited. For a few hours we stood by the car door--Ann started leading English lessons for the entire car and handing out bananas to everyone (except to the man next to me who was throwing up in a bag he had...). It was all very comical in the end. Once we got off the train, we found a taxi driver to take us to the hotel we had reserved. We both thought the price he quoted was too high, but we were too tired to argue. TWO HOURS of desert driving later, we arrived in Dunhuang (apparently the Dunhuang train stop isn't actually IN Dunhuang) and found our hotel around 2. The next day we went to see the caves and spent some more time riding camels in the desert. On Thursday we got on a plane to Shanghai and on Friday a bus here to Hangzhou. I have no desire to return to the Gobi desert for as long as I live.

Call me if you can!

2005-08-21T14:51:00.000-07:00

Cammie cannot check her email or post a blog in China right now. She is working on it, and hopes to have it available within the next 2 weeks. (She is not sure whether or not gmail is firewalled - so she may be getting a new account).
If you want to contact her, she has a phone number now. The cheapest calling plans are with Tel 3 Advantage (for 3-4 cents/min). The link is here on "Call me" - go to the link, call their 800 number (it's much easier than registering online).
After you sign up, Cammie can be reached at 0118613600532050.
I (Katie) spoke with her yesterday, and she is preparing to start teaching, moving to a different apartment, seeking new friendships, and trying to navigate the complicated bus system and language of a massive city. She called me at 7:30 am, so I think that is late evening for her.

some call me cammie "mountain goat" brennan.....

2005-08-14T19:15:00.000-07:00

I'm back. I did it. I conquered Everest.....base camp that is...... I just got back a few hours ago from a smashing good weekend. As you know, we found a third person to go with us. Nick ended up not being a murderer at all! He is a fabulous professor in the north of England and is a professional photographer/videographer. We set off Wed. Morning with our Tibetan driver and guide to drive 250 km. to Shigatse and then Lhaste. The trip was fairly uneventful, consisting of Ann and I getting to know Nick and marveling and the amazing scenery. We had to stop once when a truck ahead of us fell into this hole. It was right in front of a village so when the westerners got out to stretch, all the village kids came running asking for money, food, pencils etc. After we got through that, Nick and I started taking pictures with our digital cameras. Despite adult Tibetans being very wary of cameras, the kids love it. It was a great bridge in communication. Most of them have never seen a picture of themselves and would scream with delight when they saw themselves on the back of the camera and then run back in front of you so you could take their picture again. It was a great game that could have gone on for hours, but eventually we had to go one. The second day was different. We left Lhatse to hit some serious road construction (at least 150 km of it) on the two-lane dirt mountain road to Rongbuk. About two hours in, the car stopped running. No matter how many times the driver (Tensing) tried to readjust things under the hood it wouldn't not restart. Finally our guide said, "big problem. no petrol." And with that the driver suddenly disappeared into someone else's land cruiser going the opposite direction. Our guide (Dawa) explained that he was going back to Lhatse (2 hours one way) to get fuel.......cut to five hours later.......Dawa, our guide, has also disappeared. Despite Ann's yelling at him that he could not leave us, he got into someone else's car and headed back to Lhatse. Before he did this, he had turned the ignition on in the car and it had run for two hours. By the time the driver came back with fuel, the battery was dead, Dawa was gone, and there was an hail storm going on. The driver, speaking no English tried for about 30 minutes to start the car when finally Ann stepped out in the street and hailed a Chinese bus headed towards Shigar (about 3 hours from Rongbuk). But, once we got on the standing room only bus, we realized the driver didn't follow us. We were on our way to Mt. Everest with no driver, no car, no guide, no place to stay, no papers to be traveling on this road and no permit to get into Everest. Three and a half hours of awful dirt-mountain-road driving on a bus we ended up in Shigar. We found a place to stay and called Lhasa for some serious assistance. Eventually, we were reunited with our driver, our car, our papers and permit but our guide never returned. We drove on to Rongbuk the next day. I wish there was a way I could explain Mt. Everest. It was simply wonderful. The first day it was there, it was cloudy and we watched the mountain peak in and out of clouds. The next morning, the view was stunning. The sky was perfectly clear and the mountain lay in front of the monastery in which we were staying in all its glory. (whenever I am reunited with my own computer, I will post a picture). That morning, I wandered around the monastery drinking in the sights, smells and sounds of a Buddhist monastery at the foot of Everest. While I was meandering, I ran into a young nun. I greeted her in Tibetan and she answered in English, very good English actually. She (her name is An Droma) was fascinated by my digital watch and wanted to know for how much I would sell it to her. While I've been asked several times for my watch in Tibet, no one has ever offered to buy it. I took it off and gave it to her and said "no money." She smiled a priceless smile, grabbed my hand and took me into her "cell". It was a tiny dark room with a tiny naked old woman sitting on the bed. She explained that it was her mother and that she was blind so she took care of her. She asked me to join them for Yak butter tea (um, that is rancid yak butter put in a churn with boiling water and churned until it is mixed, actually I hate it with all that is within me). Of course I said I would love to join them for some tea. We spent the next hour drinking yak butter tea, eating barely powder and sharing stories. Before I left, An Droma reached for a necklace on her shelf. She explained that she had gotten it from a temple when she went to Nepal with her parents and that it had a picture of the Buddhist goddess of compassion on it. Despite my protests, she tied it around my neck, making it clear that it was in trade for the watch. I've never received a gift so precious.